TM Upgrade/Rebuild

Its been a long time since I used that meter but I recall clicking the formula button and entering the funnel diameter  size so that the meter can convert air velocity to CFM. The funnel is needed because the air velocity of a hose connected to a CFM is too much and could damage the vane.

There is no way to convert velocity to cfm without a known volume. They are not relate-able, so that funnel is the known volume that it calibrates to.

I can run a velocity test all day with a Kestrel device, but it tells me nothing about volume. I think this tool is telling us the answer, we just don't like what we see.

It is a lot like the muscle car guys wanting to brag about all that killer horsepower, but they were all based on base hp and not at the wheel. When you compare eras, those real horsepower figures were less than a modern mini-van and not many of them could break 100 mph.

They were still really cool, but reality doesn't always match legend.

One of you guys should call Joe for clarification. I do recall having to plug in some variables

Or I just thought of this, may be manufacturer measures the cfm right on the blower itself ?

Mo wrote:One of you guys should call Joe for clarification. I do recall having to plug in some variables

As I've said, that's already been done. I called Extec and got it programed exactly with their help, for the funnel dia.

dp1 wrote:Or I just thought of this, may be manufacturer measures the cfm right on the blower itself ?

And that is basically what Rob has said, and now again with his muscle car HP analogy.

And of course the manufactures are going to measure to their advantage, and not report how they come up with the figures.

Kind of like temperatures.  Those lie detectors at the wand can be humbling.

ratings on portables and TMs are definitely inflated. Its the same as car stereo, you can have an amp that claims 3000watts made by a cheaper company but for some reason a 600 watt rockford fosgate out performs it.

hey Davey how did you bolt the TM down. never had a gas tm in our express before. it just the corrugated metal floor.

did you put the vinyl straight down or is there some insulation or foam padding underneath?

do you guys run bolts through the van floor and bolt from underneath?

thanks

I can't speak for Davey, but most guys will place either a metal pan or marine plywood beneath the machine and run bolts through the floor from beneath....sometimes both materials.

Personally, I really like the use of horse mats beneath the unit. It insulates from noise and cold, prevents rattles, is non-absorbent, chemically resistant, and able to handle 1,000 lbs without crushing.

Oh, and they are cheap too.

I use to have plywood under it, but it turned into a mess.....So when I pulled the machine out to restore it, I cut out the ply under machine and then laid new vinyl flooring over that, which created a natural drip pan, with the machine sitting 1/2" lower than the rest of van flooring. Not only does it contain any leaks now, it's also water proof, making the metal van floor less prone to more rusting.

My machine has large 3" feet or so, so they are always sitting on the high spots of the corrugated floor, and I run bolts all the way threw floor and put nuts on underside.

Just buy a drip pan, they're about $ 100 - $ 125 depending on the style, I really like the $ 125 because in the front it folded down creating an "L" so that the edges is not sharp.

Davey Cracker wrote:I use to have plywood under it, but it turned into a mess.....So when I pulled the machine out to restore it, I cut out the ply under machine and then laid new vinyl flooring over that, which created a natural drip pan, with the machine sitting 1/2" lower than the rest of van flooring.  Not only does it contain any leaks now, it's also water proof, making the metal van floor less prone to more rusting.

My machine has large 3" feet or so, so they are always sitting on the high spots of the corrugated floor, and I run bolts all the way threw floor and put nuts on underside.

Here in the rust belt, nuts go on top.

Doesn't really matter as the whole thing rusts away in 7 years anyway...rust belt sucks.

That's why I use Stainless hardware. ........rust is pretty bed here close to the ocean too.

As you know AZ no bolts needed for the TNT but I wished I would have elevated it like ACE did for Ryans TNT

Your TNT isn't bolted down to your van floor, Mo?

What's this "elevated Ryan TNT" you guys are talking about?

https://thecleanerslounge.forumotion.com/t1898-used-truckmount#24558
Look here

Sounds good, I think ill grab some pond liner (rubber) and do the floor, maybe some of the walls then run bolts through the floor.

New TM is getting delivered tomorrow, cant say enough about Kacy from Relia Built.. just about 3 weeks from phone order to delivery!

Ill get some pics up once its in.

Why should Mo have  all the fun in his  Judson TNT Refurbish   thread.
I'd like some action too
Although I haven't had to do anything really since rebuilding, as it's been running great. Except for the heater coil clogging issue I've been fighting the last couple months, but that doesn't really count.

It's no fun loosing water pressure in the middle of a job.

What are you going to do? Those coils can't be conducting much heat with them caked with calcium and you're probably using a lot more propane.

I get plunty of heat, Mo.......240-260 at TM, but yea the constant clogging I'm a bit tired of to say the least.

Hopefully this one in LV on CL you told me about works out and I can get it. I would love to have a clean coil again.