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How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot

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How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot  Empty How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot

Post by Mo Mon Feb 24, 2014 2:11 pm



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How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot  Empty Re: How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot

Post by CleanTech Mon Feb 24, 2014 4:07 pm

you beat me to a video Mo

Still waiting on some parts to arrive.

If you got a nsk thats better then what they are using now! I ordered a new counterbalance a while back and it came with a Peer - Chinese bearing that went out in around 6 months. In fact I had to replace allot of parts because HOS really cheaped out and used low quality bolts.  3 out of the 4 head bolts broke off inside. I drilled them out... like butter. I bet they were not even a grade 3 bolt!

guys. If you have an orbot look at taking the 4 pad  driver to bearing bolts out, and depending on which counter balance you have even more bolts and go to an american local bolt supply house and tell them you want stronger versions.

I had an allen key break off flush in the main shaft bolt. So Instead of taking the motor impeller off you can put a vice grip as tight as you can on the motor shaft. Then a vice grip on one of the bolts to stop the first vice grip from spinning. Then take a hammer and gently tap on the counter weights to break it free and spin it off. Like so....
How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot  2014-02-10130828

When your bearing goes find a bearing supply place and go for one of the higher end 6006 bearings like a f.a.g or a skf - around a $20 part.
Then either use a press or a vice grip and a large socket set to install the new ones
All 6006 bearings have the same ID/OD so it wont matter.




One the right is their older style assembly. The outer part of the bearing can actually come off crooked if your machines head is vertical and you accidentally turn the machine on....Dont ask me how that happened lol.
On the left is their newer design. bearing is pressed it till it sits on the shelf then the top cover goes on holding it in place.
How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot  2014-02-24164136

Unless a part is broken. Avoid waxie.
I would even suggest taking said part to a machine shop for fixing or new piece made.
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Post by Mo Mon Feb 24, 2014 4:21 pm

Thanks for the pics Dustin. Those same screws broke off on me when I tried to remove them. I wonder if anyone really removes the counter weight the way the show it in the manual. They make it look do easy.

How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot  Orbot_10

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Post by ACpower1 Tue Feb 25, 2014 11:53 pm

hey clean tech what is the machine your using in the woodfloor cleaning videos? is that an orbot?
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Post by CleanTech Wed Feb 26, 2014 11:12 am

Mo, replacing a bearing like that is easy when new but not so much when a few years old.

I greatly prefer putting a vice grip on the back to make sure an allen key doesnt break off flush inside the bolt lol.
Mo, im working on the pad driver again!
Since an original pad driver from hos broke ive had the second machine sitting since it was powdercoated. Soon it will be up for sale so I have to make it since im not paying hos $180 for a piece of plastic and velcro! lol
This one isnt my machine but the gf's families. They have been running the red pad driver for over a year with zero issues on all floors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duGEVJkOSDU

Acpower
this video? if so yes. Using the full weight kit +40 pounds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Irf8ix7TANE
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Post by Mo Wed Feb 26, 2014 5:54 pm

Were did you get the red pad driver? Is it 15 inch.
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Post by Davey Cracker Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:21 pm

Ooooohhhhhh Looky Here, looks like we have a good ol' "Bearing-off" competition, to me!  laughing laughing 
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Post by milspec6 Wed Feb 26, 2014 10:53 pm

Davey Cracker wrote:Ooooohhhhhh Looky Here, looks like we have a good ol' "Bearing-off" competition, to me!  laughing laughing 

"Bearing-off" competition? Normally it is a "loose screw" around here, isn't it?
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Post by CleanTech Wed Feb 26, 2014 11:03 pm

Mo wrote:Were did you get the red pad driver? Is it 15 inch.

17" actually

here is al old video from 2012
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TF75oMdUEvc
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How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot  Empty Re: How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot

Post by Mo Thu Feb 27, 2014 7:10 am

So it a brush pad driver. You could probably spin more pads with that one. I'll have to ask Ryan for my pads back

Were did you buy it? You just drilled 4 holes in it or were they already there. It looks heavier I wonder if that outs too much weight on the bearings.

Exciting stuff huh Davey. Hey mil when your bearing goes out you'll be referring back to this topic  Very Happy
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Post by milspec6 Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:35 am

I actually took a look at mine after seeing this string.  I still have the old style bearing for better or worse.  It seemed OK for now, but studied the video.
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Post by CleanTech Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:47 am

ill be pressing new bearings in really soon using the bench vice grip + large socket set method. Ill video it.
You could also tap them in with a hammer, but i don't want too lol


Milspec, just order part #'s
3026 - bearing retainer ring
3026- retainer ring screws
3026 - aluminum ring - dg

which will be what you need to covert to new style.

good news Mo, they wanted to force me to use waxie, but since waxie wont stock just " parts " I was able to order direct. Get your own high quality bearings.

as I writing this usps showed up with the new parts Very Happy

Mo it involves making or custom center piece as this is what your standard rotary uses for a pad driver.
more on that later....
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Post by Mo Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:50 am

Cool Dustin video tape that. Mil call your distributor to see what the bearing goes for in your neck of the wood.

I bought mine from waxie and it cost 109.00 added taxes shipping, and an up the boodie fee the total came to 151.00. That was more than what I paid for the entire assembly a couple of years ago
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Post by milspec6 Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:28 pm

Great help there guys...I'll call them up tomorrow. Very Happy 
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Post by Mo Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:32 pm

Thanks Mil. I am absolutely sure it will less expensive from your distributor.

The manufactures Part number for the bearing is - 3026-26

Just for kicks the entire counter weight assembly is 3026 they quote me 500.00 for that what a joke
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How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot  Empty Re: How to Replace The Bearing on The Orbot

Post by CleanTech Thu Feb 27, 2014 4:03 pm

Yes mo, I asked and direct price was like 220....

How is waxie still in business?
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Post by milspec6 Fri Feb 28, 2014 4:11 pm

Mo wrote:Thanks Mil. I am absolutely sure it will less expensive from your distributor.

The manufactures Part number for the bearing is - 3026-26

Just for kicks the entire counter weight assembly is 3026 they quote me 500.00 for that what a joke

They were checking on it for me, but never called me back. I will chase it down again monday.
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Post by Mo Fri Feb 28, 2014 5:08 pm

Sounds familiar.
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Post by CleanTech Sat Mar 08, 2014 2:01 pm

so ive been doing more tinkering on one of my bots

spins like this on both my test samples of thick cut pike nylon and commercial grade with 2 weight plates per side.

look a little quicker? and yes, not a velcro driver either.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFuiPkO6YvA&hd=1
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Post by Mo Wed Apr 22, 2015 3:35 pm

Its that time again the plastic Velcro drive plate needs replacement. Allright this time Im really making my own. I thin I say that every time I need to replace it
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Post by Mo Wed Apr 22, 2015 3:41 pm

I spoke to Dustin last night he said he had a video on the bearings he uses could find it on his channel. But I did find a video of him cleaning wood floors with the Orbot
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Post by Davey Cracker Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:08 pm

Wow, that is some NICE results!!

But man I'd be worried about using that much water on wood floors.
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Post by Davey Cracker Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:12 pm

Mo wrote:Its that time again the plastic Velcro drive plate needs replacement. Allright this time Im really making my own. I thin I say that every time I need to replace it

Yea, kinda looks to me, that plate is almost designed to fail.............I bet if it had some metal inserts in the holes it would last a lot longer, maybe?
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Post by Mo Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:24 pm

That's exactly what I was thinking Dave. They have the metal inserts to attach the Velcro to.

Don't think you need to use that much water
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