Ok Help!.............

I'm really having a hard time with this one...

After getting my TM all bavk together, and can't seem to get all the air out of the system........is there a trick I don't know on priming a CAT pump on a new system?

I say new system because with all new lines everything is dry. I'm getting flucuating PSI, and it's just not stable.........nettle on gauge jumping all over the place, dropping to no pressure then jumps back up, then back down and hissing from air being purged. But still after an hour of running it, and doing what I've always done in the past to fix it, it's not getting any better.

What to do??

You sucking air through your flow meter or flow meter hose?

Have you tried running the hose from your pump straight out and see if the pressure is still fluctuating ?
I think you need to start from the pump and trace your step forward from there ?

First take the top check valve cap farthest from the pump water intake. Make sure you have water flow to and out of the top of the pump head. When you have that then put the cap back on.
If possible open your regulator and start the unit. Now turn the clutch if you have one when you get a steady flow of water then shut the unit down put the regulator back together. With the psi turned down restart the unit. Run at about half throttle start to turn the psi up in 50 psi increments triggering the wand allowing the water to circulate that should do it.
If you can't open the reg. then go to the last part with the psi turned down.

After some thought, I am beginning to wonder if I'm sucking air in somewhere, maybe a cracked fitting..........I'll have to look into that tomorrow. But I know it's not threw the flow meter or chem inject system, because I've had that closed down, just to help isolate the problem.

ACE Services wrote:First take the top check valve cap farthest from the pump water intake. Make sure you have water flow to and out of the top of the pump head. When you have that then put the cap back on.
If possible open your regulator and start the unit. Now turn the clutch if you have one when you get a steady flow of water then shut the unit down put the regulator back together. With the psi turned down restart the unit. Run at about half throttle start to turn the psi up in 50 psi increments triggering the wand allowing the water to circulate that should do it.
If you can't open the reg. then go to the last part with the psi turned down.

That is exactly my normal drill for purging the system of air, and I've now done it 3 times without any improvement. Which now even more so leads me to believe I'm sucking air in from somewhere.

Just gotta chase it down.

I have a filter in my water box is that clean.

Check valve at the pump?

I've got no filter in box, I haven't yet looked at pump check valves, because it all worked fine when I disassembled it...........famous last words huh?

Ok if you've done that. Then you have to be sucking air on the inlet side of the pump because if it was on the pressure side you should have a water leak.

Just had a thought make sure there's not any trash caught in a check valve in the head if there is the valve will not close and that can cause the same problem.

Sounds good, thanks for the help!.......I'll pull out the valves tomorrow and have a look, then if needed proceed with looking for an air leak on the inlet side.

Just had a similar problem over the weekend...tiny rupture in ss braided line from fresh water tank to the cat pump. It was hidden behind the dump valve so I couldn't see it.

Only reason I found it was that there was ice that formed beneath the floor. It was causing my pump to be erratic as well.

Anyone have a tip for an easy way to help find the place where the system is sucking in air?

I'm thinking like the way you use soapy water to find a leak in a tire. But that won't work being the air is being sucked in.

Sorry man I certainly can't help you in this department, have you called Eddie or Robert at super duper ?
Another good source is Dave at Jon don's tech support, he's very cold ( response and such ) but he'll answer any questions you have, so far only Eddie and him that always have answers when I call with technical issues, and let me know if you need help tomorrow morning, I'm still open 'til around noon.

I got it fixed, thanks for all the help!!

I found a small crack in a barb fitting, that was the source of air getting into the system. Soon as I replaced it I had steady pressure within 30 seconds of firing it up.

Glad you got her fixed at least it didn't happened while you were cleaning

Mo wrote:Glad you got her fixed at least it didn't happened while you were cleaning

Yea really, that's one of the reasons I'm doing this restoration, to get back that reliability I once had..........before this machine got old and tired.

Great. Glad you got it fixed.

Davey Cracker wrote:

Mo wrote:Glad you got her fixed at least it didn't happened while you were cleaning

Yea really, that's one of the reasons I'm doing this restoration, to get back that reliability I once had..........before this machine got old and tired.

I wish it was that easy to restore the operator....same problem.

ACE Services wrote:First take the top check valve cap farthest from the pump water intake. Make sure you have water flow to and out of the top of the pump head. When you have that then put the cap back on.
If possible open your regulator and start the unit. Now turn the clutch if you have one when you get a steady flow of water then shut the unit down put the regulator back together. With the psi turned down restart the unit. Run at about half throttle start to turn the psi up in 50 psi increments triggering the wand allowing the water to circulate that should do it.
If you can't open the reg. then go to the last part with the psi turned down.

I just got done installing new pump for my Everest and had the air leak issues and checked this thread, Eddie's tips worked really well, thank you sir.
And also thank you too for answering my questions when I need help, I really appreciate it and may God bless you abundantly
I usually don't work on my TM but this one need to be done due to the costs of the pump ( almost $ 900 ) and slow times called for self service and I gotta tell you I have a lot of respect for good and honest TM mechanics out there, it's definitely not for me, my back and body sore after 2 days and almost 8 hours pulling the d@mn thing out and put the new one in due to a couple of issues here and there.
Thank you Ben too for helping me out and listening to me ranting and whining and b!tching about everything

Bitching and whining? Yes you;re a mechanics now