Wanders Red Release Testing.

This is an open thread for anyone using Red Release. I'm testing the product on performance and ratio. This product is developed to be used with out a steam iron. I will be using with both methods, spray and go, and steam heat application. I am most interested with reaction time as that affects production.  This is an open testing thread that welcomes your feed back. If you have used this please take part in the feed back.

I have some sitting on my shelf. I used it once and turned (Kid skin color, cut pile nylon) a bluish grey color. Maybe I used it wrong?

I just received some, but haven't run into a red yet. Will report back when I do.

I have been using it since last summer. It is the older version. From what I understand, Joe has changed how its mixed. Mine has been real good. It has worked every time. It has lost its punch to it and all I do is use heat and it gets the red out. I am almost out so I will be ordering more soon.

I've used it. I was using Red Vanish from Vacaway and its ok but I was able to use Red Release (2 part) a day after Red Vanish on the same spots.

Red Vanish lightened it, but was still noticeable. I received my order of Red Release the next day, called and asked if I could come back, I did, and it worked perfectly.

I did a test of three red removal spotters on an orange stain (actually several orange stains because I did not want to mix stain removers) and Red Release was the only one to get the stain out. I tested the products with dwell times of 3 minutes, 5 minutes and 10 minutes all with no heat applied. The Red Release got the stain out after 3 minutes. The other products didn't get the stains out even after 10 minutes. If the spotters had not got the stain out without heat I was then going to apply heat and check the stains after 1 minute, 2 minutes, and so on , but since Red Release got the stain out after 3 minutes without heat I thought why bother.

joe cal Joe Bristor I been using red release since Joe Bristor started selling it and it was a batch that was not good because he try the two parts together and it happen the same to me Joe. and he keep it in two parts now.

I have the first part premixed into a spray bottle. Then I apply the powder to the red. Is that the right way? I'm kind of scared to use this product since this happened.

Yes, but only use the power shaker on difficult spots. Joe told me the second part can bleach color if you are not careful.

Hey Joe if you have the old mix cal Bristor and check with him before you start working with it again. Make sure your good with the product.

Im not sure if I have the older version or the newer but I just have one small container of powder.

I have had some red stains just lift out instantly no iron, but I have had others ones I cant get out with iron

I know its meant to remove red40 dye, so maybe these stains were not red 40 but something else

usually the larger stains like in Ryan's video lift out easy but its the small little dark red dots I cant get out, one customer even said it was just water soluble marker, but I didnt think she was right because if its "Water soluble" then I think 200f water temp would lift it right out.

That's the new stuff AC

Joe explained it to me like a prize fighter. The first part is for the jab and the second part is the haymaker. Start with the jab a few times and then if needed, throw the overhand right. Just like in boxing, never lead with the overhand right....bad results will follow.

Ryan S wrote:That's the new stuff AC

so do you guys have 2 different powders? or just one?

two

The first part is in the pound jar. The part two is in a small shaker like a powder.

oh I dont have the shaker just the pound jar

I tried the RR with no luck. the jar didn't have directions of application so tried the steam towel, just put it in the van for some testing later.

As ya'll recall, there was a development period where I was trying different formulas.
I just needed time to focus. I finally found that time. It was all downhill from there. Rather easy, and fun actually.
I was craving your input.
Every time I thought I had it right I'd offer trials to some of my customers.
I did my best to give my best instructions for the particular version I sent you; usually by phone.
I am pretty sure I explained it to most of you for the particular version you were sent.
Only one I'm not sure on was Ryan and that's cuz I thought he was gonna do video and he usually asks for input during that.
Most of the guys I expected would give me the input didn't.
Pro Touch's notes are interesting. Kinda like what I saw. Probably as close to real world as we could hope for.
Thanks for your input. Strange, I don't even remember he was involved.
Tim got back to me. Others gave me tidbits.
Locally, one guy loved it, bought like 10 pounds. Then in a month it was hard as a rock (no water was introduced).
He brought it back. That's when I first realized to keep the two powders separate.

This is where we are now. Liquify Part 1. It's the Original that most guys like. It has indefinite shelf life. Mist liberally.
Follow-up with Part 2 but sprinkle it on very lightly and only where Part 1 has been applied first.
Repeat this Spray & Sprinkle technique as you're setting up, separasted by 5-10 minutes - and you probly won't need an iron or steamer.
Ken Raddon said, that's too complicated. I don't agree. I think it's fast and effective, saves you from the risks of the iron, (potential burns and chemical vapors). All I can say is it's the best I have so far. It performs beautifully in the lab. Fast easy, effective, non destructive. Wish like hell I'd had it when I was active. All those years kneeling over steaming ammonia. OMG, how stupid. But that's all we had. Not really. I should have thought about reducers. My college chemistry professors would have been dissapointed in me. But like you guys, I was too busy using whatever suppliers sold us.
CTI's introduction of Reducing agents was the first real breakthrough. Many tried to copy their two part- then simply combined the two liquids and claimed it was better. A $60 bag of powder netted them in the $1,000s.

We've learned about oxidizers - Suppliers had 'set us up' with powders. We learned that liquids are more versatile and cost effective.

Now we're learning the same thing about reducers: that suppliers had 'set us up.' Except in this case it was with liquids.
We're learning that in the case of reducers, you can take the same powders that they added water to and simply leave out the water.
Big breakthrough huh? Now you guys get to make the $1,000s by dispensing the powders directly.

Sometimes you have turn the box upside down to get the bottom.

I know I sent an original version to Johnnyone. Yes, he tried it and was not impressed.
I did offer subsequent samples but he turned me down.

And yes, the instructions are on both containers.
It's not perfect but it will save you from getting the iron or steamer as often.
Joe Ecopro has the latest version.
I talked him. He made the mistake of going directly to the iron. Not a good idea.

AC Power - your spots sound like ink. If so, use a solvent not a reducing agent.

Joe just like told me, I pray part 1 then sprinkle part 2 before I start and most of the time unless is something else most red stains come out.

You're right Joe, I wasn't involved in testing. I just wanted to share my observations when I saw this thread.
I always test several products against each other to see what is going to work best for me and if I might be able to achieve better results.

I got a lot of work to do Joe, this is my new project to follow and develop a specific instruction that delivers the same results every time. This is what I would call the intro low budget film. I knew I could get it done with the iron, now I'll work with the no heat needed method. Should be fun, I'll get with ya for some advice.

I have been doing really well with the two part red relief. Most light red comes out with part one only. The more color I just add the two part sprinkle after applying part one, then I mist on again. Then I apply the iron. Works great.

I'm and don't have much time to wait. So I use the heat to make it go fast. I will say that I have had some spots come out over a 24 hr period with out heat, in testing.

I have a big red wine stain coming up I need to remove.

But, even tho I bought Joe's red remover months ago, I've never used it. So I'm looking for some directions or advice on using it.

Would you Ryan or someone else mind explaining the procedure for using it correctly?

Davey Cracker wrote:I have a big red wine stain coming up I need to remove.  But, even tho I bought Joe's red remover months ago, I've never used it.  So I'm looking for some directions or advice on using it.

Would you Ryan or someone else mind explaining the procedure for using it correctly?

If it's red wine then you would want to use an oxidizer not a reducer.  I've sprayed red wine spills with peroxide and watched them vanish before my eyes before.