Anyone have the blower end of a coupler just start free-spinning on the blower shaft?

My coupler to the blower is free spinning on the shaft now. The socket screws were still very tight, but didn't seem to be long enough to be hitting the shaft. Under the screws/bolts, it appears there is a set screw due to the difference in the depth of the threaded hole, and the thickness of the coupler.

The set screws look like they are stripped out (no place for an allen wrench to go to remove them). I tried to hammer an old flathead screwdriver into the screws a bit and back them out, but I just get shavings. I have a feeling the set screws had other screws put in behind to keep them in.

The annoying part is that the blower shaft is not keyed, so the 2 little set screws look to be the ONLY thing that held the blower shaft, hooked to an 18HP engine. This TM has suffered from poor design for a long time (Century 400 avenger 210), and doesn't have 1000 hours yet, but it seems that it was designed to fail all the time. I have to remove the blower to change a belt, as the blower and engine shafts are almost touching.

With no place closer than 150 miles to get service, what do you all recommend? I have several jobs wanting stuff done NOW, and no machine to do it!

I've had great success with left handed drill bits to remove stripped or broken bolts. If you cant find them, Easy Outs are another option to remove damaged bolts or screws. Just be very careful to line up properly to not cause additional damage. If the threads are stripped already then you can drill and re-tap to the next size. Hope this helps.

Eric, I just sent you a PM with my number.

It's too bad I didn't catch you earlier, but I tried..............When you started a thread earlier today about this/replacing the belt. Because I responded telling you about the Link V-Belt so you didn't have to mess with coupler to replace. But when I sent my reply you had already deleted the thread I guess. That's when I sent you the 1st PM.

But now you have the frozen coupler problem,   which like I said in PM I just went threw, so I still may be able to help you.

Just give me a call!

BTW what size coupler do you have/need? Maybe a #7? Love-Joy or maybe a Martin?

Couplers have numbered sizing. The bigger number the bigger coupler. My machine uses a 7, and then the other size is the shaft/hole diameter. No sure but they might come in keyed and non keyed also.
So I can point you in the right direction to get one ASAP, and prob also help you get the old frozen on off.

Eric
I replied earlier but it didn't post. If the coupler is spinning then you have a problem.
One pull the blower. f you have a machine shop close see if they can get the pulley off drill and tap to a larger tap. Now here is the bad news if the blower shaft is damaged then the new screws may not hold. Now a service shop will tell you that the blower will have to be replaced. Now here's the problem if you have belt pulley behind the coupler and the belt will not go between the blower and crank shaft then you have to find out if there room to cut the blower shaft just enough for belt to clear the shafts. Now if this can be done then the coupler half on the blower shaft possibly can be wielded in place and the engine side be moved to change the rubber coupler. I have seen this done on a Boxxer 421 but this coupler has a sleeve that slides back to replace the rubber part. Do not let the machine shop drill through blower shaft  I have a customer that knows why it weakens the shaft. make sure the blower turns freely.  Without seeing it I don't know what else to tell you sorry hope this helps. 

Wow this is what the cleaners lounge is all about. Thanks for helping out guys

I drilled out the holes to 17/64 with a cobalt drill bit (made to drill through hardened steel) and tapped it with 5/8" 18 threads. The new holes were drilled deep enough to go about 1/16" into the shaft, leaving a little bowl depression for the new BOLTS (not set screws) to sit in the little depression. I found where the factory had a shallow hole in the shaft, and that was used for one bolt. 1.5" stainless socket head bolts were used to go into the 1" threads in the coupler plate.

That coupler isn't going anywhere now! Better to have 1" of threads holding than the 3/16 that the set screws had.

Total cost: about 37 dollars with tax (I broke one tap off in the hole. I abandoned that hole and just drilled a new one  )

2 taps @ 4.99 each
thread tap handle @ 9.99
cobalt drill @ 11.99
2 1.5" stainless bolts @ 1.70 each

Breaking off a thread tap....annoying

Learning how to drill and tap while doing it with my father's help.......PRICELESS

Glad to hear you got it fixed, Eric! :albino: 

Yeah way to stick with it you're back in business.