Judson TNT Refurbish

I hear ya brother. Thanks for the tip on the restaurant.

Looks like they won't be able to deliver the TM Im going to have to meet the driver somewhere.

According to Les the TNT weight 500 lbs empty. I'm going to by two furniture movers with 1k pound capacity each do you guys think those would work to move and support the TM or should I build a wood frame for it too?

They are going to put it on the back of my truck. Its going to be an adventure. Any advice would be appreciated?

My TM now weight about 350-400lbs but they have legs that put I put on them to remove from the van and move around so this is a new experience for me

Movers are okay, but they never roll the way that you want...especially on the grooved bed of a truck. If you go with the truck bed, cut some 4x4's and lay a 3/4 inch plywood panel over that and it should handle the weight fine.

I think you would be better of renting yourself a trailer with a ramp or else find someone with a tommy-lift equipped truck.

What do you have available to remove the mount when you get it home? That will narrow your options considerably. Engine hoist, A-frame, forklift / bobcat, 4 stout fellas, etc.

Sometimes you have to be creative with these things You could go to the independent transporter sites and find someone with the right vehicle to bring it home for a fair price...saves you the headache.

YEa, see if you can get one of those Jack Holes from "Shipping Wars" to haul it for you.     

Like Rob said, the prob I see is getting it out of your truck. Unless you have several strong people that can help. I think 4 guys should be able to get it no prob.

When I put my TM in my van, two of us lifted it in.........but since my waste tank is separate from my frame I'm sure mines not as heavy as Judson.

Just get it home...don't plan on sliding it out, lift it out. Rent an engine hoist form the local parts store, they can handle 700 lbs and swivel 360 degrees. I've pulled many engines out of a truck bed and it was a lot more fun with a hoist. Most V8's run about 550 lbs., so you are right in the sweet spot with a hoist.

The other option is to park the truck in the driveway, set out a case of beer and once the neighbors all come around to see what you have in the truck and to down a few, you tell them to "take a corner" and let them lift it out.

That method worked when I brought two vintage snow blowers that weighed 300 lbs each home. It should work for a Judson, their built in the South.  

Yeah I's only 15.00 to rent an engine hoist so I'm going that route besides all of my neighbors are over 70 years old 

Mo wrote:Yeah I's only 15.00 to rent an engine hoist so I'm going that route besides all of my neighbors are over 70 years old 

What retirement home are you living in? Any good at checkers? 

That hoist will make your life MUCH easier. Make sure you have enough chain and a few grade 8 bolts to get it all hooked up and you will be fine. Pretty exciting stuff....you will have to have someone time you to see how long you stare at the machine before you snap out of it.  

Hopefully I don't drop the dam thing.

TNT Delivered

double post

Mo
It looks fine, you have what appears to be a good solid foundation to start.
I would pull belts and change oil and filter if it has one and see if you can get motor running first.
Blowers are pretty bullet proof. With belts removed you should be able to spin it over,check for any play in the bearings side to side movement. You have a newer one so that is a plus.
I did notice the blower looks under driven the pulley looks larger on blower than pulley on motor
So if you were to run motor at max rpm if it is 3600 your blower will not be at its max of 3600
If at all possible you need to change that around, maybe that way cause motor is to small and needs the higher revs to keep the blower spinning.
With the current pulley set up your blower might only be at 3000-3400??
This could also be to help with blower noise cause that muffler right off the blower isn't gonna do much.
Get one of Joe's RC 99's and have Dave show you how to convert it into a blower silencer, I made my own and seem to be holding up okay. I explained to Dave how to do it.
You made need to shorten it a little to make it fit but I guarantee it will be quieter than the muffler on there now.  
If the pump hasn't been froze they are pretty easy to replace seals might even find a walk trough video on U tube.
If it is all SS and I think Judson's are a wire wheel or some fine sandpaper on a DA will make it look new.
Yeah you gotta little work but you will have a really nice easy to work on tm and when you are done you know all about it and how to fix it.
Have fun been watching your other thread for a while thought I would chime in and give you some encouragement

Thanks SCC chime in anytime. I have to check out those RC 99 blower silencers you guys are converting. I'll check out that pulley configuration when I decide what blower I'm going to use.

I have it down to the frame now, cleaned the inside of the tanks and removing all of the paint.

Sounds like you are off to a fast start Mo, don't blame you one bit.

That silencer sounds very interesting...look forward to seeing those details.

milspec6 wrote:Sounds like you are off to a fast start Mo, don't blame you one bit.

That silencer sounds very interesting...look forward to seeing those details.

I'll post that info, once I get the RC99 from Mo, and get it built.   But I'll also have to decide if I really need more blower silencing than what my current one produces...........ahhh hell what I'ma sayin', I don't think I'll be able to resist making a trick looking Stainless one, if for nothing more than good looks to match the rest of my project.   

milspec6 wrote:Sounds like you are off to a fast start Mo, don't blame you one bit.

That silencer sounds very interesting...look forward to seeing those details.

Hopefully I'll be done with the stripping and sanding tomorrow. Anybody have any Idea how much I can expect to pay have the tank powder coated or is there a better alternative?

I am not a big fan of powder coatings actually, they will chip on the edges and start to fail unless you keep them touched up.

I have always been more a fan of ceramic engine paints.  Go to Eastwood and pick your favorite color and spray it on.  A couple of coats and you have a glass-like finish that can handle severe heat, chemicals, chipping, fading, and it can be touched up with a spray can if needed.

I have painted cylinder heads, blocks, and intakes, and even my snow blower with ceramic engine paints and they still look new 10 years later.  Just make sure that you choose the ceramic paints and follow the directions.

http://www.eastwood.com/ceramic_engine_paints

I personally think LineX is a better alternative, but honestly prob not necessary on Stainless. I'm going with it on my frame because I believe it's more chip resistant than powder coating, but then again my frame is regular steel that I'm trying to protect from rust......The disadvantage of LineX is its only black, and a very textured finish, unlike powder.

I haven't had either done in a long time, so don't know about current pricing.

LineX now comes in different colors. I had them spray my jeep bed a couple of years ago. It was very resistent to chips and scratches, but it would chalk when exposed to high alkalines and fade in the direct sunlight.

Not sure about the price now, but it cost me about a grand to cover the cargo area of a longbed truck.

Oh OK, great info.......thanks Rob!!   

Of course Eastwood is in Pennsylvania so it will take a week to get here. I noticed they have new designed two part spray can option for some other paint but not the high heat one. Did you spray yours on or brush it on. Looks pretty good on the site

Mo, I think it would look awesome it its stainless appearance and easy to maintain just spray it down with WD-40 or Shelia Shine and wipe it clean. Maybe have a sign company wrap the faceplate with vinyl and even incorporate you company name and logo on it. Just my opinion and I'm sure it will look go however you do it.
I didn't see a heater with the machine, what are your plans for heating the water?

Mo wrote:Of course Eastwood is in Pennsylvania so it will take a week to get here. I noticed they have new designed two part spray can option for some other paint but not the high heat one. Did you spray yours on or brush it on. Looks pretty good on the site

I have done it both ways, the sprayer was more uniform, but the brush job looked pretty good as well...no visible strokes. When you are done, it will look as good as it does in the video, it really does as long as you prepare the surface according to directions.

They have some "hard-nose" paints in sparay cans that are for heavy machinery. That stuff lays down a very thick coat that protects all the road graders and snow plows in this area. Not as pretty, but very durable.

Larry I considered that but I think I would like a nice bright new color instead. Hopefully I'll be done stripping the tank tomorrow. I removed most of the paint with Airplane Stripper form AutoZone. That stuff is no joke, you gotta wear protective gear cuz that stuff is nasty.

I have a Little Giant 2 right now. I may need to upgrade down the road.

I got the roots 45 blower that came with the machine unstuck. The spare that I have id the greased version of the 45 blower, the machine came with the dual splash version. Which one do you guys think is better? The lobes on the one I already had look better so I'm leaning towards using that one.

For you guys that own the TNT. I was cleaning out the inside of the tank and I noticed that there was not blower filter in the tank. Is there supposed to be one? My Workmaster has a steel mesh filter that goes right in the blower manifold.

No filter the design of the blower on top of the recovery tank is supposed to eliminate the need for that. But always use the RC99 filter.