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So about the OSR type products... I have a few questions.

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Post by Ken Raddon Thu Oct 01, 2015 8:57 pm

Another thread is talking about Bottom Line Deo and OSR type products have come up and I have a few questions...

First off I will admit to having failures with everything I have tried. OSR and several deos including Bottom Line. So I ask how much area do you cover with say a gallon of your product (please list what you use too) poured from a bucket. And please give a variable if you have/use one.

I pour down an acid side urine pretreat (I haven't found the perfect one yet) and let that dwell for 15 minutes at least. Then I water claw that up as well as hose around the edge of the claw. Then I pour down urine deodorizer. I let that dwell for another 10 minutes minimum. Then I claw that up too but I don't rinse around the edge of the claw while extracting the deo.

If I were to use an OSR type product and I have in the past, I would just make one step of it but that stuff comes back as a white residue too many of the times I use it so I quit.

FWIW I cover about 2X2 area per gallon.

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Post by milspec6 Thu Oct 01, 2015 9:12 pm

I might be a little odd here, but I don't actually apply the OSR poured from a bucket. I mix it stronger than suggested, pour it into an inline sprayer, and apply it with the tip right off the carpet.

My thinking here is that the problem area is actually below the fibers and down into the backing and pad. Pouring it on will allow it to soak into the carpet, but the inline will actually force it below the surface while at full strength.

I will do that until well saturated and then empty the rest of the sprayer onto the spot (just poured out). Let it dwell, rinse it out with a wand, and then claw the remainder until adequately dry.

You don't get to win them all, but I don't fail to often with this method.
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Post by Matt; My carpet cleaner Thu Oct 01, 2015 9:29 pm

I don't do the bucket method.
Pump up and spray heavy. Dwell and extract.
If it needs more saturation than that, I'm not interested in the job.
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Post by Devon07 Thu Oct 01, 2015 9:41 pm

I use the HF and really saturate it.....pouring doesnt have the control....I like to apply with a detailed edge....when pouring you may dump too much in one area and not enough in another. Both I would use the same amount....so its the HF and strong! Im sold on Bottom line right now. I clean everything first and try to extract before any chems are added......during cleaning I may use a heavier prespray in the bad area boosted with peroxide....when Im done, I go back to problem areas and saturate with bottom line w HF then give some good dwell time....some times twice as I charge good for this and don't want to go back. If Im anywhere near a corner I lift and look. I dont have the full size claw...I use the smaller hand held after wanding.
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Post by ACpower1 Thu Oct 01, 2015 9:59 pm

I use 4-7 scoups of OSR/matrix miracle in 5qt hydro force no tip.

then we do the same as Rob and inject it into the carpet and backing by spraying real close to each spot or area.

osr has to be mixed hot or it takes a long time to do its work. The hottest tap water works okay

really hot water from the TM is better but you cant go too hot or it will expand fast and volcano everywhere.


So I take a little cold water, usually left over pre spray from last job, and then add the miracle with the really hot TM water to fill the bottle up
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Post by Ken Raddon Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:45 pm

I am going to try it straight from the HF. I have done that with odorcide and other deos but never osr types.

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Post by milspec6 Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:57 am

I actually prefer that spot claw over the full-size Devon. Sure, you are stuck getting down on the floor, but I think it extracts better.
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Post by Ken Raddon Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:11 am

Wait. So you guys actually hold the sprayer tip right down in the carpet and pull the trigger? Are you using a regular fan tip for this?

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Post by milspec6 Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:34 am

Ken Raddon wrote:Wait. So you guys actually hold the sprayer tip right down in the carpet and pull the trigger?  Are you using a regular fan tip for this?

Yup, regular tip right at the carpet with about a 30 degree angle working form the edge of the problem area towards the center.
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Post by dp1 Fri Oct 02, 2015 8:10 am

Same here, I also used HF, I also treat the whole carpeted areas, because you never know there might be some other areas that are affected that you missed with black light.
And like Rob said you can't win them all Very Happy
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Post by Devon07 Fri Oct 02, 2015 8:32 am

Very Good point DP! I do this at times too...if you ever pull carpet you will quickly learn that even in a home where you are convinced its just one isolated spot, you will see its usually more from the back side. The small spots don't create much of an issue but an area that is frequented is a huge problem as we know. When I do a home where the custy will pay for a good cleaning and pet treatment....I give them all I got. Like DP....I treat all the carpet. Its when they dont want to pay for the full treatment and doing it right that I just spot areas.
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Post by Devon07 Fri Oct 02, 2015 8:35 am

Yes, Fan tip.

Once you have an area fully soaked of treatment you go over it again and it does a force type thing that pushes it in deep. Dwell time is the most important thing here. Treat an area then go to lunch if you can. lol
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Post by Ken Raddon Fri Oct 02, 2015 11:19 am

Cool I am going to do/try this method with some OSR type product. I have done the same thing with hydrocide extreme and Odorcide but never osr.

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Post by ACpower1 Fri Oct 02, 2015 8:01 pm

always treat the whole job,   never just the spots..    the hydroforce full is for everywhere.

just the bad areas get the heavy spray down

after all they are walking on the pee spots and then walking all over the house


did one today around lunch time, 2 rooms with pet treatments $175 + tax matrix miracle knocked it out of the park once again.
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Post by Goomer Sat Oct 03, 2015 12:51 am

I agree with loosing the bucket.

Much more control with a smaller pitcher or flower/plant watering can.

I like pouring it little by little and alternately spreading it out with my wand.

There is no one answer to how deep down one should try to saturate with product.

I always try to factor in my best guess as to the frequency of urination at each spot as best I can based on visuals.

"Favorite" spots obviously getting hit often are treated differently than random areas.

Another important consideration is the size of the dog.

Smaller rat dogs tend to pittle only a few ounces, where the big boys can let 8 or 12 ounces go in one shot, which would obviously go deeper and would most likely reach into the padding.

After deciding how deep I should try to go, I try to treat an area roughly twice the size of what's visible.

I always follow up with a standard cleaning being sure to additionally flush treated areas slowly with my wand and give it additional dry strokes.

I never had residual powder show back up, but I can see how it would happen without follow up wand cleaning.

I don't know what you consider being a failure, but keep in mind that anything short of full pad replacement and treating the sub-floor is just a remedy with inherent limitations.

It's extremely rare that a customer will agree to pulling the pad in my experience, but irregardless, it's key to explain the different options and make it clear that they have chosen the cheaper fix, with full knowledge of it's limitations, and that in the least it will offer them a noticeable improvement, and that further billable treatments are always available if they choose.

Any perceived "failure" at this point is solely due to their choice of the cheaper remedy meant only as a improvement, not due to any inadequacies of any products, or in you as a cleaner.

If they can't control their pet from pissing in their home, and they don't want to spend the money to do it right, then it's on them.








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Post by milspec6 Sat Oct 03, 2015 5:21 am

I never cared for the injection needle method, but how about a block with thin spikes to open up the backings a little prior to an OSR application?

Would it be helpful or not? A simple piece of plastic with thin nails would even do it, but would it be beneficial like it is in removing gum?

I wonder????
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Post by Goomer Sat Oct 03, 2015 7:20 pm

milspec6 wrote:I never cared for the injection needle method, but how about a block with thin spikes to open up the backings a little prior to an OSR application?

Would it be helpful or not?  A simple piece of plastic with thin nails would even do it, but would it be beneficial like it is in removing gum?

I wonder????

https://www.google.com/search?q=lawn+spike+aerators+shoes&hl=en&gbv=2&tbm=isch&oq=lawn+spike+aerators+shoes&gs_l=img.3...5648.6911.0.7006.6.1.0.5.0.0.44.44.1.1.0....0...1ac.1.34.img..6.0.0.spetyKP11Ms

My Grandfather used to make me walk on his front lawn with these.

Some of them look like the spikes may be too wide and too long.

Although small holes would most likely give the liquid an easier route to the backing, it may very well also make it easier for the liquid to go right PAST the backing, directly to the subfloor if too long.

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Post by dp1 Sat Oct 03, 2015 8:16 pm

Goomer wrote:
milspec6 wrote:I never cared for the injection needle method, but how about a block with thin spikes to open up the backings a little prior to an OSR application?

Would it be helpful or not?  A simple piece of plastic with thin nails would even do it, but would it be beneficial like it is in removing gum?

I wonder????

https://www.google.com/search?q=lawn+spike+aerators+shoes&hl=en&gbv=2&tbm=isch&oq=lawn+spike+aerators+shoes&gs_l=img.3...5648.6911.0.7006.6.1.0.5.0.0.44.44.1.1.0....0...1ac.1.34.img..6.0.0.spetyKP11Ms

My Grandfather used to make me walk on his front lawn with these.

Some of them look like the spikes may be too wide and too long.

Although small holes would most likely give the liquid an easier route to the backing, it may very well also make it easier for the liquid to go right PAST the backing, directly to the subfloor if too long.


The idea is great, I can only imagine the customer's face when I walk all over their carpets with that spike shoes laughing
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Post by milspec6 Sat Oct 03, 2015 9:42 pm

I actually had those spike shoes in mind....not as a final design, as it would need thinner spikes, but similar idea.

I actually think it would be of benefit.
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Post by ACpower1 Sun Oct 04, 2015 1:12 am

The pad rip outs and replacements we do are done only in the really bad areas, rarely a full pad pull out.


Most of the time its a cat going along a wall so we pull the carpet back, rip the pad and strips out, treat both sides of the carpet and seal the sub floor. Then replace and re tack
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Post by Goomer Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:38 pm

dp1 wrote:

The idea is great, I can only imagine the customer's face when I walk all over their carpets with that spike shoes laughing

Very true.

Probably hard to pull off without looking like you've got a few screws loose.

Can you just picture Milspec methodically walking a tight grid in Ms. Piffleton's living room wearing big green slip on sharp spikes over his shoes, drooling at the mouth and with a crazed look in his eyes?



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Post by milspec6 Sun Oct 04, 2015 11:51 pm



So about the OSR type products... I have a few questions. Zombie10
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Post by Devon07 Mon Oct 05, 2015 6:01 am

You would need a balloon cluster to make it look like you knew what you were doing!

Rob...that is one ugly cat....how do you pet one of them things? I dont even think a dog would chase it.
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Post by Davey Cracker Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:57 am

You don't pet that kinda kat, it's the type that just claws you to death with you're sleeping.
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Post by ACpower1 Mon Oct 05, 2015 3:46 pm

omg is that a real pic? looks like an alien
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