Removing Embedded Gum

I run into this problem on a large scale that might include as much as 40 pieces of gum in a single building. The problem is that the gum has also been trampled by more than 7,000 people by the time I get to work on it and is firmly embedded deep into the commercial carpets.

On residential, I love using those yellow carpet sharks and either hel-gel or the gel-solve from Pro's Choice, but it doesn't get it done with this kind of gum problem. I wish they made a stainless steel version of that Shark, but until then, I use the head of a meat tenderizing mallet to twist into the gum.

I still am only successful probably 80% of the time and have to leave many to avoid leaving a hole in its place. I need a better method.

What works on the deeply embedded stuff? What tool, chemical, method, etc.?

I run into that really embedded stuff like that at in large qualities too, at the theater I do on a regular bases.

The best way I've found is.....

Using that yellow carpet shark and KleenRite Dissolve..........BTW I do also use a lot of that Pro's Choice pro solve gel too, but not normally on gum.  I'm seem to have better and faster results with the liquid Dissolve........I think the liquid penetrates gum better, but you do have to be more careful with it, because it will also delam carpet backing if you get carried away by soaking it and letting it sink down that far.....Best plan is to keep it on the gum!.  I've got it down now, and don't ever have that problem, but have done and seen it happen before.

The real trick for me, is the prep before applying the Dissolve (especially when you're dealing with the type of embedded, flat and smooth on the surface gum), it sounds like you're talking about?

So my trick is.... Heat it up some with hot water from wand to soften it up a bit first, then take shark and ruff it up by scraping two different directions, so you've put some groves in it, or at least some low areas, and then apply as much Dissolve on it without it soaking the fibers around it, let it soak for a few seconds or a min, and then get aggressive with the shark loosing it up (a lot of times you actually remove it all that way and end up with a couple larger chunks sitting on top of carpet you can suck up with the hose. But if not, and either way, you then always need to hit it well with your hot water from your wand to flush out the Dissolve and any soften gum still there. The only exception is if it's really deep/stubborn you might have to repeat, but I don't have to do that often, using the method I just described.

Hope this helps.

Ok, wow, I did it again. LOL

Making something that's quick and simple to do, sound complicated by over explaining and using too many words, sorry.

Don't let all those words^^^ scare you away from trying it, because it really is a quick and effective process, once you have it down.

I though you explained it well.  I used to use dissolve (mint scent) on them as well, but I screwed up once and it left a permanent halo around the gum.

I've been thinking about using a wallpaper steamer on them.  Set it on there and let it really heat the gum up and then go after it.  I have to do something as it just adds way too much time to the job lately.

I'm using a butter knife now instead of the shark as the teeth of the shark tail end up bent after a few pieces just trying to stab some holes in the blob for the solvent to work. SS version of a shark would sure be nice.

that gum freeze stuff works pretty good.

most gum or candle wax I run into will just melt right out. if its old and has had a ton of foot traffic then it sometimes needs a little help

I think you got the right idea by stabbing holes in it with the sharks tail or knife,  But like you basically said, they don't hold up and get bent,,,,,,,,,,so that's why I always use the sharks upper teeth (I guess?), the part that looks more like saw blade teeth, because they're thicker and do hold up, at least for me.
But yeah a metal one would be cool, too bad I lost touch with a friend I had on the East coast that does laser metal cutting...........I could have of had him make a couple out of SS in a min.

Here's what I do.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmlm0vnq8Js

I remember that tip Ken, it was a great one too, but I'm talking about that gum which is hard as cement and smashed all the way to the backing.

I'm leaning towards one of these and a good solvent.

http://www.amazon.com/JB0150-Style-Tenderizer-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003GZC9QY

I understand your hesitation but...

I was doing a cgd and there was a piece of gum under near where this woman had her desk (no chair mat mind you) and then there was this piece of gum. It had been there longer than she worked there and I shouldn't bother with it because the last few guys tried and it was not coming out.

Needless to say that method obliterated that gum in no time. I don't even try solvents anymore bc there is just no need for them. And it works on wax and other unknown gooy stuff.

At what temp and psi are you using that method?

The temp need only be hot. It works with my Peak whos temp is all over the board. It works only a little faster on super hot machines like my old powermatic.

It is like everything else in this biz. The pressure, the temp and the water flow or gpms. Any TM will do the trick that can achieve 160° and above.

The psi on my machine is set for 500 when I am cleaning carpet and/or using this technique.

milspec6 wrote:I remember that tip Ken, it was a great one too, but I'm talking about that gum which is hard as cement and smashed all the way to the backing.

I'm leaning towards one of these and a good solvent.

http://www.amazon.com/JB0150-Style-Tenderizer-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003GZC9QY

I agree, Ken's method I can see working great, on those you can blast pressurize water under, but I doubt on that pancake embedded gum on CGD we see in theaters.

But I'll try ken's way next time, to see how it works for me, for sure!!

Good luck Rob, it looks like you have several things to try.  Although, I don't think the meat roller is necessary, you can do the same thing with the sharks thicker teeth, and it's cheaper if you leave it at a job or loose it.

I decided to just explore options here and ordered some new weapons. I don't want to insult the chemical producers in this industry, but sometimes the best solutions are in other industries.

Just look at tile cleaners....the best one came from the concrete cleaning industry and back in the old days, we used WD-40 (stoddard solvent) to remove gum and grease. There are just so many options to explore.

So, I ordered a few different gum removers from within the industry and some from outside like the gum remover that 3M is producing. I have also ordered that SS tool called "Jaws" which is very similar to that meat tenderizer approach that I talked about.

I will have a gum shoot-out down the road on the next large cleaning while trying to remove the worst mashed in gum that a commercial building can produce.

All methods, tools, and chems are open to be part of it. So, make your recommendations of what you feel is the "best of the best" and I will include them. I might even break out the WD-40 for this one.

Here's one you haven't mentioned...

Ultra Chem Labs: Clean. Look that up on Youtube and yes it really works.

I just discovered that Tom Conway sells a SS gum tool like the carpet shark....just what I was wishing for.

I guess it pays to do some research these days, I might have to pick one up to add to the gum tool shoot out.

http://www.devastatorproducts.com/~shop/accessorys/dev-tooth/305346/

Cool deal, and just what I was thinking. ......But I'll stick to the plastic one, because it works fine for me.

For two Reasons......

I could see that SS doing some fiber damage, and just like it says "This is a very aggressive agitation tool and should only be used by an experienced cleaner."

And, I've never worn out the saw teeth part of the plastic shark............I loose them way before that could happen.

I could definitely see someone digging holes to China with one of those, but on commercial, it is far less likely. I guess I will find out.

I'd be more concerned about fraying, or just abrading the fibers causing a noticeable color or texture difference...............who knows maybe it's a non issue?..but if there wasn't a risk that disclaimer prob wouldn't be on there.

But I sure do like laser cut Stainless tools.

I perfected the art of the Gun and Cuff method on trampled in pancake like gum at a theater. There were over 125 pieces most of which were so packed in that there was no edge to them at all. They had married to the carpet completely. I have never used a gum removal solvent since that night. The gun and cuff is so effective that if you had to go to the van to get your solvent I would have the gum out before you got back.

I got everything I use/know (except the experience) from online so my method is not mine but what I have compiled from others.

Take an upholstery tool valve like this one:http://interlinksupply.com/index.php?item_num=AW795 and fit it with a q/d on one end and a tjet on the other (if you can't tell which end to put which part on you're new and need to take a class). Now you can fit that in your pocket or tool belt. You just whip it out and slap it on the end of your hose when you come to some gum or wax or other unidentifiable goo and make quick work of that problem.

I used a pressure washing gun for along time but I would have to go get it becasue I didn't ever have it on me (that is what I used at the theater) so I would stoop to using solvents.

That's a alot of gum