removing rust from linoleum

is it possible? have a commercial customer that wants it removed if it all possible

Is the vinyl shinny at all or just a matte finish??

I'd start by applying rust remover, same stuff you use on carpet and let it dwell of a min or two, then hit it by hand with an abrasive pad...either a green Scotch Brite type pad or a piece of a black floor mach stripping pad, (like the center hole plug that comes in it)..those work great for hand scrubbing.

If that doesn't cut it, and if the vinyl floor will accept it, I'd then move on to using a Pumie PUMICE Scouring Stick, it works every time!........I remove rust and other types of stains from ceramic tile and grout with them. cheers: 
*****But I would not use that on a shinny vinyl unless the dulling caused by the abrasiveness is going to be hidden, look better than the rust staining, or just not really an issue because of the condition the vinyl is in.   

thanks Davey,

There is a good amount of rust stains on the floor of this restaurant so hand scrubbing might be too expensive.

Its more of a matte finish or used to be shiny but isnt anymore. He said he had it cleaned before but they werent able to remove the rust. I am not sure if they tried a rust remover or just a basic cleaner.

Ill prob stop by there with a rust cleaner and an abrasive pad just to see if I can pull out a stain

Abrasive agitation is the key here, if the rust remover doesn't touch it, which is usually my experience. And if all else fails, the Pumie PUMICE Scouring Stick comes threw prob 99% of the time for me on stuff like this.   

Triple (000) steel wool and Bars Keepers Friend.

heat accelerates acids.
I've used the heat transfer process to remove rust from concrete.
Just be real careful not to breath the vapors or get vapor in your eyes.
Just set up a fan first and open some windows.
Of course no birds, fish tanks, pets.
Charge hippies extra (Fred's tip).  

My Rust Remover is the most cost effective on the market.
The 1lb jar ($29.95) makes a whole gallon of rtu rust remover, and that's dissolving it in cold water.
Get that water hot and you can dissolve a lot more of the powder thus increasing the H+ potential to ~ that of Hydrofluoric acid.

Don't mist rust removers with trigger sprayers without fans and respirator.  It won't kill you to breath the mist but it will burn your nasal linings (kinda like a lot of things we breath just faster).
Apply it by dripping it onto rust. I provide you a 4oz flip top.

If you use one of the hydrofluoric acids, keep it away from your skin, especially for prolonged exposure cuz the Fluorine ion leaches calcium (eg humans bones) big time.
Guys have lost fingers and had hip problems from carrying it in their pockets.
Oxalic is a safer alternative yet very effective.

If the floor is finished the rust is mot likely in the finish. Take a little stripper and a black scrubby. Should take it right out. Then just touch up the area with a finish - dip a cloth in the finish and lightly wipe on several coats. Should blend right in.

Thanks! Hey Joe is your rust remover oxalic acid based?

yes. 100% Oxalic acid powder.

I see this all the time almost always from file cabinets that were moved to new location and almost always imbedded in the VCT then waxed over. Oxalic acid works the best I make a paste and a abrasive pad to remove.

I agree on the oxalic acid, that is what is in the Bar's Keepers Friend and is suspended in a creme. Works well....