Small Water Damage

I would like to first say that I only do extremely small dry outs. This one is a little Over my skill and equipment capabilities. That said I wanted to share this with ya just to break the ice on some water mitigation topics.  I will add that I referred a qualified company to the Maint super for further investigation and advised that the nursery to be closed until it was cleared to be safe by a qualified company. Enjoy.


For those of you that actively work in water mitigation I have posted this so that you could suggest what you would do further as well as equipment placement  thanks for your involvement with this topic.

I refer to Eddie Voncannon in this film he was helping me with some questions I had about this project.

That is not what I would consider a small water loss.   

Matter of fact I'd guess (not knowing the actual moisture levels, or the total actual damaged/affected areas of wood floor, base, drywall and structural wood) if properly dried out it would be a several thousand dollar job, and that's just mitigation/dry out...........never mind rebuilding cost.

Ryan do you have a moisture meter, so you can really determine the wet areas?
Is the floor solid wood or a laminate? Moisture level in the wood?
Are the baseboards MDF?
Moisture level in the drywall?

From the looks of things in the video and what you said I would think at the very least the base should be pulled and walls opened up for drying, including more drying equip in there.........maybe drywall removal depending on the moisture level.

But you really need a moisture meter to determine the scope of the loss.

Being a nursery, it shouldn't be taken lightly, to much risk to little ones, and liability.

This in a church??

Yes your right, me either Davey.  This is a Church that I go to.  They called me because they didnt know how bad it was.  I believe your right on with the cost of mitigation too.  

Ryan do you have a moisture meter, so you can really determine the wet areas?Dave, I was just helping to get them through the weekend until a mitigation company could come out to asses the damage.  I dont even have half the amount of drying equipment needed to correctly dry this out.  I go to this church so I am giving them help and advice to get through the weekend.  Other wise I wouldnt even went out to the call.
Is the floor solid wood or a laminate?It is a Linoleum    
Moisture level in the wood?
Are the baseboards MDF? Yes
Moisture level in the drywall?

From the looks of things in the video and what you said I would think at the very least the base should be pulled and walls opened up for drying, including more drying equip in there.........maybe drywall removal depending on the moisture level.

But you really need a moisture meter to determine the scope of the loss.Remember I said I only do extremely small losses.  Like one or two a year.  I have none of this equipment.

Being a nursery, it shouldn't be taken lightly, to much risk to little ones, and liability. Right here too Dave.  I recommended a mitigation company to call to handle this job correctly, as well as NO children in the nursery until it has been cleared a safe environment for everyone that may occupy.  

This in a church??  yes

My purpose of this thread is not to show how I dry out.  Because I don't.  I thought it would be a good video to show what more needed to be done in order to correctly restore this area.  I know that there is a poor amount of drying equipment in there as well as I did no readings.  So I though I correctly hacked job a water damage for everyone to provide the information to  correct what is wrong.  I can answer any question about the environment you may need other that moisture readings.  Maybe I can call the company that will restore the area and let them jump in on this thread with some more info as to how they performed the job.

Drying a structure is all in the details. You control the details, you win. All the equipment in the world is of little use without the details.

Some things to think about:

1. What is the humidity in the room compared to the outside? If it is lower outside, forget the Dehu and open some windows so that all that moisture and be pushed outside. (same goes for carpet cleaning)
2. Ensure that the Dehu is ducted outside of the space so that the moisture doesn't just recycle into the room.
3. What are the conditions behind the base mouldings? Do you need to open them up to get air flow to those areas? The answer is normally yes, but it does vary.
4. Can you get to the floor from underneath? Great place to push some dry air.

These are just a few things to consider and knowing the moisture content of the floor is very important throughout the entire drying process, so a meter is pretty important. That being said, it looks like you took sound steps to help mitigate this situation from becoming worse. Sometimes that is all you can do without more equipment.

With a good noninvasive mositure meter for the wood and a Kestrel meter, well routed ducting, additional dehu units, patience and time, this would probably dry out well without any complications.

Ryan, Sounds like you know enough to know you don't know enough. lol

And will get someone that does, good choice.   

That's for post that Ryan. That's the first video I have ever seen of some drying out a structure.

 MIL and Davey or anyone else are you guys in the WDR game. I hear there is big money in it as well a big headaches. What has been your experience?

Big Big headaches....maybe 30% net.

You can make some really good money if you get the work and have a resource for equipment rental (dehu, air movers, ozone rooms, etc.). Around here, I had to have all my own equipment as there wasn't another reliable resource and that created plenty of headaches and storage issues. Probably 30k into equipment at one point before walking away. I couldn't afford to compete with the big franchises and you HAVE to be able to respond at any time of day or night immediately.

Under the right conditions, it can be worth it, but if not, 30% at best.

I've heard of those head aches before but the 30% net is a surprise. I would do it for 70% net

Headaches is right, especially dealing with the insurance company's..........WAITING woops 6 months to get paid!!

Never mind the liability!!   

How di dyou get paid so fast on that job DP referred to you?

Mo wrote:How di dyou get paid so fast on that job DP referred to you?

Hahaa it wasn't an insurance job. I took Credit card over the phone.

You know I've heard of guy doing that on all WDR jobs a required hefty deposit

Deposits are a must to cover your costs and 60 day payment was the norm in my area.

the dehuey doesnt need to be ducted outside, it pulls moisture from the air and blows out hot dry air

the water is collected in a tank or set on auto drain

So that's how dehueys work

uses a compressor just like an AC,   thats why ACs work as dehueys and also need the water collected to be drained somewhere

but you can also significantly lower the humidity in a room by just setting up an exhaust fan and ducting it to a window

Thanks Rob and Dave for your input. Here is what I have in motions, hope it works out.

The church maint super did call the mitigation company as I recommended. PHC is the name of the company doing the work. I have heard nothing but good things about them and will do a great job in completing the work. A representative come out this morning to survey the area and suggest further action. He took moisture readings through out the room and there was moisture up the walls at places up to a foot and half. Which I suspected. As far as the floor not sure yet. I have the contractors number and I am going to contact him tomorrow and see if he would be kind enough to come on the board and give us the info on the steps and readings that were taken and the mitigation plan. Cross your fingers and hope he will take some time to share some useful information.

I am familiar with PHC, good company. As they say, "water always wins" and it can be a real surprise to people where that water intrusion can end up. Sucking out the standing water is great, but it is only half the job...it would be good information for those wanting to get into water restoration for the first time.

I probably have a dozen moisture meters in the shop, maybe I will put them in the classifieds if there is interest.

AS far as moisture meters, everyone could benefit from an inexpensive one. Dri-Eaz has a cheap0 one called a WetCheck, it a wet or dry type.....no actually % reading, but it lets you know if there's excessive moisture in something, and it's only $30. I always take it in with me on first time cust/quotes, and about 40-50% of the time it makes me money by detecting moisture attracted by urine salts. And it impresses the hell out of customers, they're easily impressed.   

Ryan, good thing you're doing, mad Props, Man!!