I have an old RX 20......commercial or residential?

Whats the best use for an old RX-20? Commercial or residential cut pile?

I'm in need of glides for it were do I get some for this unit?

I got this unit locally a couple of years ago and with the intent to sell it and make a few bucks but have not got to it yet.

I was curious if it's a good cleaner for residential carpet without glides? It is in good shape. I had one of the skids welded back on...it initially cam lose in transit.

There are several here that use them. Odin is one, most will use with both CGD and wall to wall. Give the guys a few to wake up and you'll get some replies soon.

Raffy wrote:Whats the best use for an old RX-20?  Commercial or residential cut pile?

I'm in need of glides for it were do I get some for this unit?

I got this unit locally a couple of years ago and with the intent to sell it and make a few bucks but have not got to it yet.

I was curious if it's a good cleaner for residential carpet without glides? It is in good shape.  I had one of the skids welded back on...it initially cam lose in transit.  

I've had mine for 15-18 years, and have used it on types of carpets. I should say, I just it on any really dirty carpets. It's just to heavy to be getting out otherwise I think. Most of the time I'd say it's not practical for residential if there's a lot of furniture, it's like trying to maneuver a Battleship in a bay!  

Just look at my pics in the "Best of thrashed" thread.......you'll see I use it on most of those.

Pros/ or where I use it most:
Big commercial jobs with open areas
Vacant Residential
Cleaning any very soiled carpet regardless of furn or room size. It's just to much work pushing the wand on really soiled carpet (that's for the young guys ), and the RX will do a better job than I can with the wand on those real rat nasty's!

Cons:
Heavy to unload/load from truck
Not good in small, tight areas, or where's there's a lot of furn to go around or move


I used mine for years without glides, and cleaned just fine, but have had cheap0 banana glides on it for last couple years, I do think carpet drys faster with them on. Cleans better with glides?.....Not sure about that.  
Where to get glides?....good question, I'm really not sure, sorry.

I'd say just start using it on different jobs and I think you'll soon figure out where and where it's not good for you to use.

I use mine on 99% of the jobs both commercial and residential. Works best with glides - recovering 75%-90% of the water. You can get glides from Joe Bristor, Greenglides.com, and/or Mytee Bananna glides from Mytee suppliers. Prices typically range from $74 - $199 for a set of five. I make my own glide from Delrin AF rods. They are easy to make, last longer than any glide I have ever purchased, and cost me about $15 per set of five.  

carpetdaddy wrote:I use mine on 99% of the jobs both commercial and residential. Works best with glides - recovering 75%-90% of the water. You can get glides from Joe Bristor, Greenglides.com, and/or Mytee Bananna glides from Mytee suppliers. Prices typically range from $74 - $199 for a set of five. I make my own glide from Delrin AF rods. They are easy to make, last longer than any glide I have ever purchased, and cost me about $15 per set of five.  

W0w, Joe can you please tell me/us how you make the RX glides!?! got any pics!?

My banana glides are worn out, so I'd love to make some new one's soon!  

I'm more than capable and have all the tools I would need I'm sure. But would love to see and hear how you do it. And also where you get your raw material/stock from?

Joe, after seeing your RX jobs pics in the contest thread I wanted to ask you a question, or really anyone else that uses an RX.

I normally "cut-in", (my term for cleaning the edges and especially corners) with the wand before cleaning with the RX.  The only time I wont 'sometimes' do this, is on commercial jobs with vinyl base-cove, because I can clean right up to it well, and without any scuffing like you would expect if there was wood base boards, but I still will do corners with wand.

So I'm just wondering, if you other RX users also "cut-in" with the wand or do you do something different??

I still use my rx on vacants (trashed apt and houses) with a set of green glides and couldn't be happier. It would be tough to steer it around a crowded area and a bit risky, so leave those to other tools.

As for "cutting in" the edges, I actually do that after the rx-20 scrubbing. For me, I prefer to wand out the swirl marks with dry strokes so hitting the edges works out better after cleaning. Dry times this way are very good and the results excellent.

what ever you do don't buy the mytee banana glides I have had a set and what a pain in the a$$ just to make them fit. get some from Joe or Lisa greenglides.

Davey Cracker wrote:Joe, after seeing your RX jobs pics in the contest thread I wanted to ask you a question, or really anyone else that uses an RX.

I normally "cut-in", (my term for cleaning the edges and especially corners) with the wand before cleaning with the RX.  The only time I wont 'sometimes' do this, is on commercial jobs with vinyl base-cove, because I can clean right up to it well, and without any scuffing like you would expect if there was wood base boards, but I still will do corners with wand.

So I'm just wondering, if you other RX users also "cut-in" with the wand or do you do something different??

After cleaning with the RX, I use a wand/stair tool on the corners. I use the on the edges where needed.

Davey Cracker wrote:

carpetdaddy wrote:I use mine on 99% of the jobs both commercial and residential. Works best with glides - recovering 75%-90% of the water. You can get glides from Joe Bristor, Greenglides.com, and/or Mytee Bananna glides from Mytee suppliers. Prices typically range from $74 - $199 for a set of five. I make my own glide from Delrin AF rods. They are easy to make, last longer than any glide I have ever purchased, and cost me about $15 per set of five.  

W0w, Joe can you please tell me/us how you make the RX glides!?! got any pics!?

My banana glides are worn out, so I'd love to make some new one's soon!  

I'm more than capable and have all the tools I would need I'm sure.  But would love to see and hear how you do it. And also where you get your raw material/stock from?

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I purchase 24" x 1.25" Delrin rods (I got mine from lowcostmetals on ebay for $27.75 per rod w/free shipping). Each rod is enough to make 10 skids/glides.
1. Cut the rod in half so you have two 24" halves (I use a table saw)
2. Cut each half into five 4.25" pieces
3. Using a drill press starting 5/8" from the end, drill 9 11/64" or 3/16" holes 3/8" apart (see rough sketch)
4. Drill 1/16" shallow pilot hole 1/4" from each end
5. Screw the skid/glide to the vacuum weldment/nozzle -with the skid gasket in between - using a washer & 1" hex screw.
I have made these with Teflon, Lexan, and Delrin AF. Delrin has held up the best for me getting the better part of a year out of them with heavy daily use. The Teflon and Lexan glide a little easier (barely detectable difference), but they only lasted me about three to four months under heavy use.   Hope this helps...

carpetdaddy wrote:

Davey Cracker wrote:

carpetdaddy wrote:I use mine on 99% of the jobs both commercial and residential. Works best with glides - recovering 75%-90% of the water. You can get glides from Joe Bristor, Greenglides.com, and/or Mytee Bananna glides from Mytee suppliers. Prices typically range from $74 - $199 for a set of five. I make my own glide from Delrin AF rods. They are easy to make, last longer than any glide I have ever purchased, and cost me about $15 per set of five.  

W0w, Joe can you please tell me/us how you make the RX glides!?! got any pics!?

My banana glides are worn out, so I'd love to make some new one's soon!  

I'm more than capable and have all the tools I would need I'm sure.  But would love to see and hear how you do it. And also where you get your raw material/stock from?

" /> " /> " />

I purchase 24" x 1.25" Delrin rods (I got mine from lowcostmetals on ebay for $27.75 per rod w/free shipping). Each rod is enough to make 10 skids/glides.
1. Cut the rod in half so you have two 24" halves (I use a table saw)
2. Cut each half into five 4.25" pieces
3. Using a drill press starting 5/8" from the end, drill 9 11/64" or 3/16" holes 3/8" apart (see rough sketch)
4. Drill 1/16" shallow pilot hole 1/4" from each end
5. Screw the skid/glide to the vacuum weldment/nozzle -with the skid gasket in between - using a washer & 1" hex screw.
I have made these with Teflon, Lexan, and Delrin AF. Delrin has held up the best for me getting the better part of a year out of them with heavy daily use. The Teflon and Lexan glide a little easier (barely detectable difference), but they only lasted me about three to four months under heavy use.   Hope this helps...

Very cool, Joe!! I'm on it, going to make some!!
Thanks for the great explanation.

Is there anyway you could post a larger version of the pics?.....if you want you can email them to me and I can do it, if you want?
Just let me know and I'll PM you my email addy.  

Hey, Joe or anyone else interested in material to make RX glides............

I checked online at Ridout plastics, a place I've bought plastics before with great prices and fair shipping cost. Their price on Delrin Rod is great!  

Priced @ $.79 per ft. I've got 4 ft in my cart for $3.16 and $10.50 UPS ground shipping.
They are here in CA about 100 miles from me, so your shipping cost may be more, but just put in your zip code in "Cart" and it will give you shipping cost.

Check it out.......

http://www.eplastics.com/ACTBLKROD-125

That link is for a 0.125 thickness rod!

The 1.25 are $4 a foot. Hope u didn't order those.

Keep in mind I am not an artist or a machinist. I have seven RX 20's and think I have found every possible way to keep them operating at peak performance at minimal cost. If you need any RX savings tips let me know... Hope this helps you improve performance and save you some money. If not I'll give you a complete advice refund  

Fuzzsucker wrote:The 1.25 are $4 a foot. Hope u didn't order those.  

Oh yea, DUHhhhh :joker: 
Glad I didn't order yet.  Thanks for catching my Mistrake  No wonder it was sooo cheap!  

Here's the correct link for 1.25".....
http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Acetal_Delrin_Rod/ACTBLKROD1-250

Thanks for the larger pics, Joe!!

Are you using the original 5 jet head or the newer 3 jet with cone jets

Also @carpetdaddy any other modification have u made to ur units?

Wow, home made glide, that's brilliant Joe, now I wonder if there's easier way to make the holes bigger ( kind of like slot, instead of holes ).
And are they hollow on the inside or solid ? If they're solid, how do you cut the inside to fit your wand / rx-20 ? And what size rod should you buy for a regular wand ?

nice home made glides guys

being the old one you must have the 5 jet style...thankfully

What kind of a tm do you have?

I would suggest getting 5x02 jets with check valves from Joe
Sacrifice some heat for flushing ability
the 01 jets that come on it can get clogged stupid easy.


primary use definitely commercial but can rock the trashed residential job. I do use mine in packed residential all the time if needed

Fuzzsucker wrote:Are you using the original 5 jet head or the newer 3 jet with cone jets

I am using the five jet head but only use four of the jets, and switched from 8001 to 8015 v jets. I have tried the cone jets and did not like them at all. The glides/skids and the jet configuration are the two main modifications that I have made. As far as repairs go:

(keep in mind I have a lot of these machines and we use them on just about every job. If you use the RX 20 on a daily basis you know how expensive they are to maintain... I try to save money anywhere I can without hindering performance.  

1. When the $100 hydramaster solution valve goes bad, I replace them with a $2.00 ball valve. Bend the tip of the ball valve lever up and you can open and close the valve with your thumb without taking your hand off the handle. Works great, lasts longer, and you can control flow better if you need too.

2. When the motors go bad instead of ordering the stock hydramaster motor at $400, I replace them with MTR-P50-1AB18 from Automation Direct (automationdirect.com) that cost $100 and have free shipping. The specs are the same - this motor is just a little bit louder and has a longer shaft. The shaft and key cut down pretty easy with a reciprocating saw.

3. I have changed the gear box oil from oil to packing it with bearing grease (they may come like that now - not sure). Now there is no worry of oil migrating in to the motor and dripping out if the machine is laid down.

4. When the star arms break or crack I bring the pieces to my welder and he charges me $10 per arm. This beats the heck out of paying $45 for a replacement arm or $165 for a new star.

5. When the hubs break from the center of the wheels, I replace the wheel with the same size lawnmower wheel from Lowes or HD at $9 instead of paying $30 for an RX wheel. The lawnmower wheels are not non-marking, but it has not been an issue in the past several years.

6. I quadruple the life of the vacuum nozzle/weldment. They are going for about $75 each now (Joe B. just totally hooked me up with 15 new ones for about $35 each - thanks Joe). After several months they start to wear at the top where they rub against the star. I cut 1" x 1.5" strips of plastic from an empty gallon jug. Fold it over the top of nozzle so that it is between the star and the nozzle on both sides of the screw hole. Drill through the screw hole (thru the plastic) and reinsert the screw. When the screw hole starts to wear and thin really bad, fill the hole with JB Weld or some other metal filler. Let them sit for a week then re-drill the hole to the original size.

7. Double the life of the brass plungers. The brass plungers wear down to far to keep the handle locked in place. Remove the plungers from the linkage, using the drill press drill the same size hole at the opposite end of the plunger as close to the end as possible. Saves about $16 a pair...

8. Keep a 99 cent single pole light switch on your van. If the RX switch goes bad in the middle of a job take the back cover off the machine, remove the RX switch, and replace it with the light switch. A little more difficult to use, but it will keep you working until a new switch arrives. I have one backup machine where I cut a switch hole in the face of RX and mounted the light switch. Easy to use when you get use to it.

9. Instead of purchasing the 2" clear vac hose $32 per section pre-cut. I buy it on-line at $5/ft for a 25 foot length which makes 9 pieces (that's almost 60% savings). http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM7882988202P?ci_src=184425893&ci_sku=SPM7882988202&sid=IDx20130125xMPTLSx025

10. The hoses on the stars start to where thru on the wire reinforcements. Take some Liquid Electrical Tape from Lowes or HD and brush it on the cracked areas. A thick layer followed by several thin layers works well. This will continuously extend the life of these hoses and safe you lot of money over time. Also securing these hoses to the spray nozzle with a tie strap keeps them in place better and helps excessive wear on either end of the hoses.

Also if you ever have a star arm break in the middle of a job and don't have a back-up star on the van, take the vac hose off that is connected to vac nozzle/weldment that was attached to the arm that broke. Ball up a small piece of cotton towel and insert it in the open end of the hub where you took the hose off (so you don't lose suction). Finish the job/day balance on the four good heads. There is no loss of performance just a little harder to balance - but beats losing the work.

Hope this helps.  

dp1 wrote:Wow, home made glide, that's brilliant Joe, now I wonder if there's easier way to make the holes bigger ( kind of like slot, instead of holes ).
And are they hollow on the inside or solid ? If they're solid, how do you cut the inside to fit your wand / rx-20 ? And what size rod should you buy for a regular wand ?

I have never tried making glides for a regular wand. The rods are solid. I would think that slots could be cut using a router. I'll have to defer on this one. Sorry.  

Your are the rx king my man. Holy Toledo, thats some good stuff. Post of the month right there!

I never found that clear hose to be very good. I bought a section of 2inch o.d. polycarbonate tubing and have about 6inches put on there with regular old vac hose. Works great and stays crystal clear.

Fuzzsucker wrote:Your are the rx king my man. Holy Toledo, thats some good stuff. Post of the month right there!

I never found that clear hose to be very good. I bought a section of 2inch o.d. polycarbonate tubing and have about 6inches put on there with regular old vac hose. Works great and stays crystal clear.

Thanks   . That sounds good, I'd like to try the poly tube. Where can I purchase it, and how do you connect it to the vac hose? Thanks.

I'll take a pic as soon as I can