Heater Efficiency and Choice

dp1 wrote:How much are they per gallon ? Seems like it's adding up a lot at the end of the year ? Plus the time and fuel costs to go to propane station to fill the tank up ? Not to mention what if you run out of propane at the job site ?

Those are my primary issues with the propane. I have one location that will fill in my area, the rest are about 20 miles away at a U-Haul. The local guy is actually a lumber yard and closes at 5 pm. I can burn through that 8-11 gallon tank pretty quick on large commercial and then I am stuck.

I wonder if it would be valuable to graft a Hx onto the TNT to reduce the propane usage and provide a back-up heat source if my tank runs empty? I wonder if that is even possible?

I wish I had them side-by-side to compare.

Heck yeah its possible john hx already makes a heat exchanger doe the TNT I believe they quoted me 1200 with out the diverter

Mo wrote:Heck yeah its possible john hx already makes a heat exchanger doe the TNT I believe they quoted me 1200 with out the diverter

That doesn't sound bad. I would be barely sipping propane as a booster and still be able to clean if the LG develops a problem in the field.

Food for thought...

milspec6 wrote:

...........

I wish I had them side-by-side to compare.

I don't think there's much to really compare, is there?......but of course I'm biased because I want your LG #4.

But seriously, I think the Diesel heater will way out perform the LG in the heat dept, and the LG is no match when it comes to PSI, right.

Wait hmmmm, Or are you talking about Hx vs LG?

How much is propane ?

I usually pay $2.50-3 a gal.........but it can be as high as $4.50 a gal around here.

Davey Cracker wrote:I usually pay $2.50-3 a gal.........but it can be as high as $4.50 a gal around here.

It was $4 around here this winter and $2.50 in the summer. That can get expensive.

The heat output is similar between the two heaters, but that NorthStar gives you 4,000 psi as well. The only comparison I really need is to see is how much smoke / soot the diesel heater generates and options for supplying power to the burner on the diesel unit.

Ahhh OK, got ya.

If this is going in a box truck I would try and find a bigger tank. I've seen some 30+ gallon tanks around here for about $200. Check with some Rv repair places. I have just under 70 hours on my TNT and have only filled the propane tank 3 times. I just go and fill every 20 hours or so on the meter.

cush83669 wrote:If this is going in a box truck I would try and find a bigger tank. I've seen some 30+ gallon tanks around here for about $200. Check with some Rv repair places. I have just under 70 hours on my TNT and have only filled the propane tank 3 times. I just go and fill every 20 hours or so on the meter.

How big of tank are you running?

I bought the largest Manchester tank that I could find and it is still only 9 gallons...heavy SOB though. I will check for a larger size, their is plenty of room under the box for a larger tank.

Remember that beast of a tank Bob foster had on his Rig?

I thing mine is only a 12 gallon. I have a van but if I had a box truck I would get a larger one. I'm not sure who makes the big LP tanks but the next time the Schwan's man comes to my house I'll ask if he knows. They have their trucks to run on propane both engine and freezer. I also saw a landscaper with a big commercial truck that ran on propane. All in all I don't think propane is any more costly than the diesel or kerosene burning units. Maintenance wise long term I think the propane is a better choice.

When I was looking to buy a truckmount I was looking at some with the northstar burners and did not like how you had to flush the black water out of them the first job everyday. The only downside I can see is the psi but really don't see needing any more than the 1300psi the lg is rated at.

Thanks for all the good advice...sorry Davey, I'm leaning back towards the LG heater again.

I think grafting a Hx to the TNT along with the LG heater would give me the ideal set-up that protects me from being without heat.

Even if I ran out of propane or had a LG break down, I would still be able to work....albeit at a much lower temp.

Dave. I wonder if the encap is building up a film in your copper coils and preventing conduction?

Is that even possible. I mean encap get crusty when it dries but don't he coils always have water in them so it never dries in there? Just thinking out loud.

I don't think so, because I just recently started running encap for a full time rinse....way after the lack of heat prob started. '

Dave you want me to send you my lg thermostat to test and see I'd that is the problem I think its the same one as the 3

Maybe that would be a good plan, Mo.  I actually have the original thermo off this used heater (I'm using the one off my old heater now), but since the one that came with this heater doesn't "click" when you turn the red temp knob I'm very Leary of using it, thinking there may be a problem with it?

milspec6 wrote:

How big of tank are you running?

I bought the largest Manchester tank that I could find and it is still only 9 gallons...heavy SOB though.  I will check for a larger size, their is plenty of room under the box for a larger tank.

Im running a 50gal, they arent cheap bought it brand new for 700.00. I had a cheaper one used that was available from an old RV but would have had to custom weld/fit brackets and clearance wouldnt have been great all said and done.

Davey Cracker wrote:Maybe that would be a good plan, Mo.  I actually have the original thermo off this used heater (I'm using the one off my old heater now), but since the one that came with this heater doesn't "click" when you turn the red temp knob I'm very Leary of using it, thinking there may be a problem with it?

Mine doesn't click either Dave. I believe the thermostat for the 4 is different. Put the one that doesnt click back on. If that doesnt work maybe the regulator isnt working  good. I went over board with a dual sage regulator.

I need to order some new fitting on mine it took them off now I cant get them seal without it leaking propane

Mo wrote:

Davey Cracker wrote:Maybe that would be a good plan, Mo.  I actually have the original thermo off this used heater (I'm using the one off my old heater now), but since the one that came with this heater doesn't "click" when you turn the red temp knob I'm very Leary of using it, thinking there may be a problem with it?

Mine doesn't click either Dave. I believe the thermostat for the 4 is different. Put the one that doesnt click back on

Why would they be different? I will check mine tonight.

The one on Les's video is a number 4 and it clicked when he turned it

Mo wrote:The one on Les's video is a number 4 and it clicked when he turned it

Sounds like you may have found the problem then....simple fix.

See if yours clicks. Ill ask little giant when I order today

Mo wrote:See if yours clicks. Ill ask little giant when I order today

Actually, I know mine clicks.

When I was servicing it last fall, I checked the t-stat timing based off the Judson video and remember mine clicking at the right set point.

They should all be clicking.

Aren't those the same therms used on hot water heaters in your home? Just unitrol units, I believe, and can be found at home improvement stores or hardware stores. Might be able to save some time and money local.

How old is the t-stat control....not 2005, I hope.

http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2005/CPSC-Robertshaw-Controls-Co-Announce-Recall-of-Gas-Control-Valves-on-Water-Heaters-/