chemical metering

I'm looking at replacing the last step injection on my everest. Hasn't really fully functioned the last 2 years. Can I pull the prochem chem pump and put a siphon meter using:

This-
http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Pressure-Washers-89222670-Chemical/dp/B00M56TP3A/ref=pd_sbs_auto_11?ie=UTF8&refRID=0FP211903Z7JG8SNKS2X

And this-
http://www.jondon.com/chemical-flow-meter-2.html

I have one on my Ez tm that I like cuz its simple. But it meters before the pump. What affect on the pump with chems going thru it.?? Not harsh stuff.

Is it possible to have the venturi valve after the pump- as the higher pressure(but not yet heat water) water comes out??

I have like 2 1\2 cases of liquid slurry waiting to be used. (My ez tm has been down cuz of a frozen pump) just haven't gotten it back up an running. Bytheway, can a pump that is leaking cuz of freezing be rebuilt??

So there's 2 questions in that rambling:
1. Chem meter mod
2. Rebuild pump

Sounds like a good thread of discussion.

Why don't you want to just fix the current injection system, rather than invent a new one?

Being a butler user, I've fought injection issues for decades and finally gave up on it all together. On commercial, I see no decline in cleaning results when using softened rinse water.

If I was biased towards residential cleanings, I guess I would want a good injection system for a rinsing agent. Not vital, mind you, but I would prefer it.

Running injection chems through your pump back in the day when we cleaned with lye and a myriad of caustic chemicals, was a destructive thing. I don't see that as a major concern any more.

I think I would prefer to set up an injection system that metered the water coming into the water box over many of the factory systems. You can find systems at Dultmeier for use by car wash bays that operate in that fashion. They even sell the water SS water boxes for them.

Either that or run dual fresh tanks with one being dedicated to your rinsing agent and just switch between the two as needed. You can't get more reliable than that...no moving parts.

As for the pump, been there a couple of times. As long as the case isn't cracked, it can be rebuilt. That being said, expect to find a cracked plunger or any number of expensive parts that add up to nearly the same as a new pump.

In both cases, I was better off just buying the new pump and then rebuilding the old one for use as a back-up. That freeze damage often shows up months later when a weakened part snaps that you never knew was damaged.

I would either just put your rinse in your water tank, easiest fix

or fix whats there, ive never had issues with the standard chem feed meters just have to get all the air out and chase down any air leaks if there are.

when your pump froze likely you had water expansion, it could have either cracked the block in which case it needs replacing or it could have just blown the seals out in which case you can get a pump rebuild kit from dultmeier

That's the key, keeping the system air leak free, and I'd guess that is the cause of 99% of the problems with chem injection.......I know every time I've had an issue with mine it's been an air leak.  Usually a split hose or cracked brass fitting everytime in my case.

The first sign of a problem is erratic pump pressure, usually easy to see on the gauge, or the Dwyer Meter has air in it.

Just find and fix the air leak, and you should be good.......although it's not always easy  to find the cracked brass fitting, and usually requires dis-assembly, and a very close inspection to find it (look at the inside of the fitting, rather than the threads)........I just went threw that myself.

As for the chem pump being frozen open it and if you don't see any cracks is rebuild and try it. And if it is cracked call me I have 2 or three extra used (old brass style) I'll sell you one.
The air leak is the main problem with last step injection that's why I use thread lock on all metal to metal fittings ie. barbs tighten all clamps so the hoses can't be turned with your hand. If the barbs have some age over a yr replace it for the cost it's not worth the head ache.

I've already had the chem meter reconditioned 2x and I would get a flow of close to 3 for awhile then it would go down. But the other thing is water would BACK FLOW into the 5 gl jug and spill over. The jondon tech said I need to rebuild my cat pump, for ohhhh close to $500!
Then these prochem meter systems are a pita to prime and set!!!
I just don't like setting the flow. On my ez tm the siphon system is soooo simple..
I don't have a fresh water tank so mixing that is doable. I'd like to have a tank but not much room and the added weight of extra water. Prochem says that the everest and tanks full of water is about 1800#. Throw in my lard ask and other stuff, in low riding it.

Matt; My carpet cleaner wrote:I've already had the chem meter reconditioned 2x and I would get a flow of close to 3 for awhile then it would go down. But the other thing is water would BACK FLOW  into the 5 gl jug and spill over. The jondon tech said I need to rebuild my cat pump, for ohhhh close to $500!

Yup that is exactly what happens when you have an air leak in it............back-flows into jug when not used, and doesn't suck draw chem when in use. Super simple and cheap fix once you find the place where it's leaking......and there's nothing to say it couldn't happen in a couple months to your new system your talking about making, because it's a common problem. Then you would be in a couple more hundred in and with two none working injection systems. I'd just fix what you have.

Butler uses the same prochem chemical pump and I share your pain. That was one of the reasons I wanted the TNT, simple injection system.

How large of a tank would you really need for flushing on a job? Could you do it on a 40 gallon tank...that's about 350 lbs full. Or the same as a heavy tech and lunch box.

That's an issue that I absolutely hate to deal with, luckily I have a TM Mechanic that is really good in dealing with leaks, he got really good eyes and can find leaks within minutes.
I would stick with the standard prochem pump and have someone find the leak. Good luck

Matt; My carpet cleaner wrote:I've already had the chem meter reconditioned 2x and I would get a flow of close to 3 for awhile then it would go down. But the other thing is water would BACK FLOW  into the 5 gl jug and spill over. The jondon tech said I need to rebuild my cat pump, for ohhhh close to $500!
Then these prochem meter systems are a pita to prime and set!!!
I just don't like setting the flow. On my ez tm the siphon system is soooo simple..
I don't have a fresh water tank so mixing that is doable. I'd like to have a tank but not much room and the added weight of extra water. Prochem says that the everest and tanks full of water is about 1800#. Throw in my lard ask and other stuff, in low riding it.

Mat tell jondon tec he's full of it. The only time I've seen pump rebuild needed is if it prime or will not pull proper chem flow and even then a set of hi/low pressure seals will fix that you can replace those yourself for $150 or so I charge $75-$100 for labor.
As for the chem jug over filling there's only one way you can make water in the jug is to add water, eather the chem check valve has trash or most likely chem pump diaphragm is busted because that's what seperates hp pump water from chem pump water.
As for pump loosing prime water draining back into tank you have air leak between inlet side of chem pump and chem tank.

Just repaired one yesterday customer called said he was having press problems and chem draw wasn't working wouldn't prime and had bubbles in the meter. After checking it out he had a cracked flow meter a hair line crack to to bottom of the meter replaced meter used thread lock on the barbs connected the lines. Test ran the unit no press problems chem primed the first time no bubbles and drawing normally.
Press problem was the chem was injecting air into the sol line. Happy customer

I think this is related to chemical metering, I replaced my 3 way valve yesterday and since I got the valve from a local portable store guy, what happened was the ball faced the wrong way, since Eddie suggested if I ever have the need for one to get it at local hardware store, just giving some info before you install it, make sure the ball is in the right direction ( look through the opening and make sure it's open when the valve goes that direction ) cause both of my new ones didn't, I had to open them and flip the ball 180 degrees.