can I bounce an estimate off you guys?

12x8
12x15
10.5x3
3x3
8.5x9
17x12.5

remove saturated tackless strips, treat floor with odor ban type product, seal with kilz, plastic sheeting 1mil covering areas

carpet guy is coming to install new tackless strips, lay pad and carpet so the estimate does not include that part.


I quote 850.00, for those of you that do repair work what would you charge?

thanks in advance

Some back info might explain this?...........I'm assuming this is urine damaged carpet, but not sure?

The whole house was saturated? Need more details.

Consider the "Odor Barrier" by CTI over the kilz...far more effective.

good idea Mil, where can you get the barrier? I was going to use plastic sheeting.

Theres no carpet left, its been ripped out. Just removing strips, small amount of sanding on floor, and treating. Then painting Kilz and covering with barrier.

Its a ground floor apt

oh the barrier is a liquid, got it. I thought it was a special plastic sheeting.

I was going to paint with the kilz extreme or whatever its called, the more expensive aggressive one

The kills will work, but takes longer to dry and get a little tacky like shellac. Also check the label on that Kilz, some don't have federal approval for indoor usage....although the label might lead you to believe otherwise.

With the carpet already gone, life gets easier. I would estimate it according to expected time to complete and not on any square foot estimates

Now if you really wanted to go full-throttle, get some gas mats / radon barriers and use them instead of the plastic sheeting...no vapors can penetrate it so it stays sealed up tight. Of course, that stuff is pretty pricey, so probably not an option. .

Ive had great success with kilz before, but I may try the odor barrier. Is it a primer? or just a solution?

I feel like painting a primer and sealing the wood would give better results but Ive never used odor barrier before.

The older kilz formula contained limestone dust as the binder, but I think now it is talc and mica. The original was a respiratory issue more than the newer variety, but the latest primer can become flammable and is a carcinogen. If using kilz (original or new) use lots of ventilation and mask up.

As for the odor barrier product, it goes on like a primer to seal the surface. It works really well on vertical surfaces and tack strips too. It does absorb into the surface, so it takes more to cover the same area, but it really locks out those odors well.

For sealing urine in I was always told to use an acrylic vs a polyurethane as the acrylic is non permeable and the poly is.