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Water Box Leaking

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Post by Mo Thu Jul 23, 2015 8:05 am

Hey ACE you know the TNT's like the back of your hand or anybody else. What's the most common reason for the water box leaking?  I put a some thick weather stripping on the lid, the hoses don;t seem to be leaking. The leak is at the bottom somewhere. I have had a chance  to take it apart. What should I look for Thanks in advance
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Water Box Leaking Empty Re: Water Box Leaking

Post by ACE Services Thu Jul 23, 2015 11:40 am

If it is leaking around the top its probably the float valve Assy or if connected to the building it could be to much psi on the line ie: over 60 psi.
If leaking from the bottom then you've got a hole in the water Bx. Most common I've seen is the first two. Are you cleaning a commercial job? They are the ones I here about the most. They are running around a 100 psi that will push the float open and over flow, try it at a different job.
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Post by ACpower1 Thu Jul 23, 2015 3:00 pm

Hey Mo,

Same thing happened several times with our TNT.      Our float ball was filling up with water.

Unscrew it and shake it to see if you hear water inside,    if you do...    then you can take a bolt with the same thread as the "arm" the ball screw on to.      

Take the bolt and pop out the little insert thats on the float ball,   shake all the water out then put silicone on that little brass insert and push it back into the float ball.

Then no more water will seep inside it   


It took me a bit to figure out why the float assmbly was adjusted correctly but it just wouldnt float and cut off the water,     it was just a water logged float ball.
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Post by Mo Thu Jul 23, 2015 3:23 pm

Thanks for the heads up AC I'll make sure to take at that. Which reminds me I need to replace my toilet
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Post by Davey Cracker Thu Jul 23, 2015 3:33 pm

Besides what's already been mentioned............

On mine a common reason for it leaking out of lid, is the plunger gets sticky and doesn't shut off water at the right time, causing it to overflow or be to high of a water level..........then when driving, it sloshes out the lid...the fix is pull the plunger out of the valve, and coat it with grease, then it won't bind up and not stop water at the right time. So check the water level height, the sweet spot on mine is about 2/3 to 3/4 full.

If your ball is filling up with water, don't waste your time trying to fix it just by a new one, they're real cheap at Lowe's/HD.............same as a toilet float ball if it's like mine.
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Post by ACpower1 Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:03 pm

ocareful with the float box on the TNT too, I sliced my hand open real bad when messing with the problem I mentioned above.

one edge on the box was razor sharp, prob should have gotten stitches but it healed okay
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Post by Mo Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:11 pm

The float is huge. I feel like just getting rid of the box entirely. My work master has a recirculating pump with a pulsation damper and never had a problem with it.
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Post by ACE Services Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:16 pm

Do you have a fresh water tank
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Post by milspec6 Thu Jul 23, 2015 8:09 pm

That recirculating pump has to send the water somewhere Mo. If you want to rid the water box, you will need a fresh water tank.

My butler tm doesn't use a water box nor does it use a transfer pump. I am not really sure why the tnt needs a transfer pump as the cat pump should be able to pull some water.

Oh well, I guess when in Rome.
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Post by Mo Thu Jul 23, 2015 8:37 pm

No fresh water gotta get a pic so you guys could see the pump on that ETM is plumbed
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Post by ACpower1 Fri Jul 24, 2015 6:39 pm

we have no water box and no fresh tank on the relia built van,    just garden hose connection feeding straight into pump

I think the only real difference is then your chem injection dwyer meter needs to be after the pump... TNT runs acid rinse through pump to keep lines clean
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Post by Mo Fri Jul 24, 2015 6:50 pm

ACpower1 wrote:we have no water box and no fresh tank on the relia built van,    just garden hose connection feeding straight into pump
Thats exactly the way the Workmaster is plumbed
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