What's your rinse

After four years in business I have bounced from acid rinse to detergent to emulsifier. Finial setting in at a half rate of detergent rinse. I've been using harvards heavy duty rinse is the name I think. I put two cups desolated in hot water and fill up the 5 gal jug. I meter at 2. I also add 20 oz of nilium deo for a light scent just so I can pick up the smell of the rinse flowing. I have been using this for awhile at that rate with no problems or so called resoiling. I feel it adds just a little extra cleaning power.

What do you guys use and any thoughts on which rinse to run.

I use 2 oz per gallon S/O/E as my rinse metered at 2. I have yet to see any resoiling or wickback of spots.

Prochem xl-333, use it half of the instructed rate, may be even less than that, never had a problem with resoiling, I think it even extends the cleanliness of the carpets since it's being left slightly towards alkalinity, tried dry slurry, like the smell, don't like the residues left in the machine, over time it really builds up in the plumbing line.

When my chemical pump was working, it was SCR, Last Step, or S/O/E.

Just picked up a new pump today and hope to back in service by Sunday night.

Pro Touch wrote:I use 2 oz per gallon S/O/E as my rinse metered at 2. I have yet to see any resoiling or wickback of spots.

That's iteresting. So your putting 10 oz in your 5 gal jug?

Liquid slurry for the dirty ones @ abit less than recommended dilution. I like that LSlurry will provide alittle more cleaning action. CWRinse for the lite soiled ones. S-gobble as PS.

When I do HWE, I have acid rinse. I have to put it on with a electric/pump up as my pump won't hold up to acid. (I use a porty)

Ryan S wrote:

Pro Touch wrote:I use 2 oz per gallon S/O/E as my rinse metered at 2. I have yet to see any resoiling or wickback of spots.

That's iteresting. So your putting 10 oz in your 5 gal jug?

Yep, that's it.
I've tried as much as 3oz per gallon and as little as 1oz per gallon and haven't noticed a difference. Decided to stay in the middle with 2 to get a baseline and will go from there based on results.
My IICRC instructor only used encap for a rinse and swore by it. So far I do too.

Because we have a high percentage of wool carpets over here i have been using Prochems all fibre rinse being acidic,not much cleaning power tho.SOE is next on my list to try as a rinse is it acidic?(dont have a ph tester)

Maybe Joe will help us on this one. I would be careful with the soe using a HX TM. Don't know why but he did mention that. Eric runs a Judson so he is good.

I heard of a lot of guys using S/O/E as a rinse but didn't know what the polymers would do to my diesel heater . Am curious though .
I have just been running water as a rinse .

Kleenrite PCX. easy to mix, biodegradable, green and non toxic. I use it at half the rate they suggest. 1 1/2 cups vs 3 cups.

Harvard Heavy Duty has been my go to for a long time.  Have others as well.  Lot's of formulas for different situations.

Mark Saiger

What Eric said said makes sense.
SOE is slightly acidic at dilution so it will keep your lines squeaky clean.
There's no 'alkaline burn' of conventional emulsifier chemistries.
SOE is both DfE safe and Woolsafe.  Wool will sparkle.  
Surfactant residue is made brittle by flourinated encap polymer, thus resists resoiling like protectors.
Subsequent vacuuming keeps it clean longer.

SOE is no breakthrough product but it does give you a cost effective, DfE safe, proven, multi-purpose product that serves as: hwe prespray, encap prespray, encap spotter and rinse agent.  

Only problem - and I've mentioned this many times - is SOE is not compatible with acids.  
You don't want to be in experiment mode with SOE. Either go SOE or don't.

(Think of SOE like you do Cool Cuffs...  superior to vinyl cuffs and incompatible knockoffs. SOE is superior to alkaline rinses just like Cool Cuffs are superior to imitations which were designed from their beginnings to make the manufacturers money, not you. Theirs leak, don't fit  hose right and break prematurely, costing you more money and frustration. In the end you come back to the original.  Same with SOE. It's not expensive and you get a long lasting clean.  Sell it on that basis and you will have happy, repeat customers).

SOE IS compatible with all the other chemistries you need to clean: specially formulated to be compatible with my deodorizer, Joedorcide, my DfE Safe **Tropical Fragrance, and of course White Knight (or any other liquid peroxide).

To eliminate any chance of incompatibility, it's simple...
just run fresh water through your lines for few minutes.
Then dedicate to it like Eric. Or use the Sipper Tube that DUO Joe came up with.
OOs get it.
If you have techs that want to experiment on you when you turn your back, don't give them SOE.

I've copied a few guys who use it as their rinse.  Maybe they'll help.

** Tropical Fragrance - not enough of you guys are trying this product. I've got it packaged in small 4oz bottle with spritzer cap.
Ask for one at your next order. Your first one is free. After that, only $5/ bottle. A tiny squirt leaves a wonderfully frangrant DfE safe fruity-sweet, tropical fragrance that most people just love. A wonderful air freshener for property managers. Gotta get Chip to fire up the old printing presses for labels.

Been using dry slurry and just switched to Sapphires version. Can't recall the name.

I use All fiber rinse

So what happened to the majority of guys that said "They only rinse with freshwater"?

There is nothing wrong with freshwater rinsing as long as it is soft water or deionized. Since my chem pump disasters, I have been a softened water rinse guy. Haven't noticed a lot of difference except for scent (SCR smells like coconut to me) and some soda wicking.

Starting tomorrow, my pump problems are over (hopefully for awhile) and will be going back to a crystallizing rinse.

Good topic, add to the conversation if ya haven't got involved.

As for me, I've changed again. I have been using Chemisters Master extractor the last two months. I really like it.  Has a soft scent, and leaves the carpet soft as a neutral rinse. I have used on restaurant, regular residential, and nasty rentals.


Best if all. SOE is on the shelf. Gonna be running that sometime. But not before I clean all the lines out good.

I use all fiber on nastys when more pre treat is needed or it needs a little deodorizing.

otherwise soft water, we have it on tap here.. 7.4pH and about 60ppm

any one running SOE with a shot of joedercide for rinse?

Seem like it would be a great combo,

I've found the joedercide kills foam perty good, it would also leave a nice smell,

and it would seem the encap would eliminate any sticky residue form the jodercide. Any reason not to use the combo in rinse?

I was always a fresh water rinse guy up until recently.
Having the benefit of NYC tap water, I was never concerned with residue, and was never concerned about any PH issues.

I have been working through a jug of Dry Slurry lately at light dilution, solely for a benefit of a little additional emulsifying cleaning power.

I notice a very light fragrance benefit too.

At only 1/2 oz per 5 gallons of fresh (porty), a 6 pounder goes a long way.

I would imagine that carpet cleaning in NYC is porty only? definitely in downtown seattle, zero parking. sry to hijack just curious

Whats the opinion of using SOE on truckmounts that don't have last step injection, Have you had any trouble with HX getting buildup? I've always like Joes products. Very cost effective and efficient.

I've been using end zone lately. Just bugs me when I do a t&g job and leave that hazy residue from the rinse. (55 gal drum with previously added solution rinse) I should add a dump valve.

The Blazin Blue also works good, no noticeable residue but high ph of 9

ACpower1 wrote:I would imagine that carpet cleaning in NYC is porty only?    definitely in downtown seattle,   zero parking.     sry to hijack just curious

I would say 70 percent of the work in my immediate area is ONLY accessible with a porty.

Not only due to the areas with prominent elevation, but even in the immediate so-called "residential" areas, consisting of predominantly 1 and 2 family homes, the close proximity and congestion makes it very difficult to be able to stage a truck-mount/van close enough to, and comfortably enough to make it feasible. It's very likely that it would require either double parking and running hoses across an active sidewalk, or squeezing into a very tight driveway, with not much room to spare, as opposed to having a nice big driveway directly in front, all to yourself.

Only 10 minutes North of my area, things become very exclusive and much more sprawled, where it would be a lot easier to operate from a truck-mounted unit comfortably, and a premium price can easily be commanded.
I have not yet begun to target these Northern areas aggressively.
I plan to target this area more in the future with a truckmount, taking advantage of the added power by aggressively pushing hard surfaces like T/G, and locally, more commercial work like restaurants, where I will have the room needed, and that can be easily accessed, and where I can take advantage of the higher heat/performance/production rate.

At least, that's my plan.

I am only a few years into this adventure, but I couldn't see myself, and can't see anyone else trying to start from scratch in my area, and attempting to build a solid base while not being able and capitalize on the obvious abundance or porty work available.