What's your rinse

Joe EcoPro wrote:Whats the opinion of using SOE on truckmounts that don't have last step injection, Have you had any trouble with HX getting buildup? I've always like Joes products. Very cost effective and efficient.

I've been using end zone lately. Just bugs me when I do a t&g job and leave that hazy residue from the rinse. (55 gal drum with previously added solution rinse) I should add a dump valve.

The Blazin Blue also works good, no noticeable residue but high ph of 9

Did ya miss the post Joe made???

What Eric said said makes sense.
SOE is slightly acidic at dilution so it will keep your lines squeaky clean

read my post fu@#$%% idiot

STPP with some 20 mule team borax

I have always been a freshwater rinse guy.

We've just recently reformulated the O2 extraction rinse, which is a neutral Ph. The main thing an extraction rinse should have is the capability of breaking the surface tension. The O2 extraction rinse does this very well. One addative we use is called a chelate. This deals with the minerals in your water. This is how we get such a soft hand with the O2 rinse. When water rinsing alone, and you are using high mineral water, it leaves these minerals in the carpet fiber. That's why you don't have a soft hand. Our product has high disinfectant and brightening properites, plus accelerated drying times if a fan is used.

The new formulated O2 rinse is 8 ounces to 5 gallons of water. Set the flowmeter on 2 gph.

How much for fresh water tank? I have no chem feed.

D I water

I'd like to use acid rinse 25 oz in a 5 gal. set chemical injector at 2gph. Is a good agent to balance the ph and reduce the chance of wicking.

flushing the crap out of the carpet, and actually having the power to suck it up....


Reduces wicking

I use All fiber rinse, as well use Joes SOE/ with just a pinch of the tropical fragrance-- cost is super-- results are great as well

An important factor in choosing a rinse has to be the characteristics of the local water supply.

Goomer wrote:An important factor in choosing a rinse has to be the characteristics of the local water supply.

You get an Amen from me on that.

Goomer wrote:An important factor in choosing a rinse has to be the characteristics of the local water supply.

I assume you're talking about guys that don't have water softener ? Can you please explain this a little more detail ? Thanks.

Every community publishes a water quality report which will list many things including the tds (total dissolved solids), chlorine levels, and ph.

Knowing that information, you might find that your water has a high chlorine content or maybe a very high ph rating. When you purify water, the chemist's goal is to make the water a certain clarity, smell, ph level, with an acceptable level of solids. He does this with several chemicals including citric acid, sodium hex, pot ash, etc.

Think of it like making pancake batter. If you add too much water, then you have to add more flour...add too much flour, you go back and add more water. A bad cook might try several times to the mix right.

A chemist is the same way. All chemists will get the final result in an acceptable range, but only a good one will do it with minimal chemicals. Ever notice how some water tastes a little powdery or see lots of floating things when you hold it up to a light? That would be a bad chemist who left the water with a high amount of chemical content, despite reaching the acceptable ranges.

When rinsing, it is valuable to know what you have as a water base. Like I mentioned, my area is full of limestone and calcium so it needs to be "softened", but it takes so much "baking" that you can end up with a ph of around 9.0. So, a water rinse in this area is actually a high alkaline compound...just like your prespray and will not neutralize.

Every area is different and good luck if you clean rural areas that use a well...who knows what that water is going to be like. Much of it around here are very high in chlorine and can actually damage the carpets.

Get a water report for your area and you might be surprised what you are actually rinsing with....it will set you apart from your competition.

This is a sampling of natural water around the country, note the differences. This isn't purified water by the city, but what is naturally available. Once the water chemist gets in there, it can be vastly different.

For me, the keys are that softened water will have higher tds content with a fairly high content of cations and anions left after the process...just removed the calcium and magnesium content. Test the alkalinity of your rinse water, just like you control the cleaning agent, and you will get better results with what-ever you decide to rinse with.

Supply
Calcium
(mg/L)
Magnesium
(mg/L)
TDS
(mg/L)
Bicarbonate
Alkalinity as
CaCO3 (mg/L)

pH
Seattle, Washington

6. 5 1.4 41 22 7.5
Tacoma, Washington

4.5 0.9 40 15 7.0
San Francisco, California 3.2 0.6

27

9 9.1
New York City, New York 6.9

1.0

41

11 6.5
Boston, Massachusetts

4.5 0.4 31 7 6.4
Atlanta, Georgia

8.0 0.7 44 17 6.9
Savannah, Georgia

18 1.1 91 29 7.3
Portland, Oregon

1.0 0.6 22 7 6.4
Baltimore, Maryland

18 3.5 89 39 7.7
Denver, Colorado

10 2.2 39 23 7.2
Household Softened Water 1-7 0.2-2

150+

100+ 7+
POU Reverse Osmosis
Treated Water
1

0.1

10-50

10-50 6.5+

Good points Rob. I can tell you have been researching this topic extensively while working with the ozone rinse system.

All the above post have some really good info to digest.

Ryan S wrote:Good points Rob. I can tell you have been researching this topic extensively while working with the ozone rinse system.

All the above post have some really good info to digest.

over

Actually, this is just some left-over brain cells from my military days as a water chemist...although the ozone water did play a part in remembering. The military instructors made us purify swamps and even raw sewer water for our final exams....we had to drink a gallon of what we purified. Talk about pressure and paying attention to detail.  

I wasn't a great chemist (why I went into other areas later), but I only made the company sick once in 7 years. They didn't actually get sick, but my team forgot to drain the bleach from the storage tanks prior to filling with drinking water. Guys were adding sugar to their canteens to knock down the bleach taste. It was pretty bad.  

milspec6 wrote:This is a sampling of natural water around the country, note the differences.  This isn't purified water by the city, but what is naturally available.  Once the water chemist gets in there, it can be vastly different.

For me, the keys are that softened water will have higher tds content with a fairly high content of cations and anions left after the process...just removed the calcium and magnesium content.  Test the alkalinity of your rinse water, just like you control the cleaning agent, and you will get better results with what-ever you decide to rinse with.

Supply
Calcium
(mg/L)
Magnesium
(mg/L)
TDS
(mg/L)
Bicarbonate
Alkalinity as
CaCO3 (mg/L)

pH
Seattle, Washington

6. 5 1.4 41 22 7.5
Tacoma, Washington

4.5 0.9 40 15 7.0
San Francisco, California 3.2 0.6

27

9 9.1
New York City, New York 6.9

1.0

41

11 6.5
Boston, Massachusetts

4.5 0.4 31 7 6.4
Atlanta, Georgia

8.0 0.7 44 17 6.9
Savannah, Georgia

18 1.1 91 29 7.3
Portland, Oregon

1.0 0.6 22 7 6.4
Baltimore, Maryland

18 3.5 89 39 7.7
Denver, Colorado

10 2.2 39 23 7.2
Household Softened Water 1-7 0.2-2

150+

100+ 7+
POU Reverse Osmosis
Treated Water
1

0.1

10-50

10-50 6.5+

Wow, thanks Rob, that's worth 10 reputation points sir but I have to knock one point since LA is not in your sample, lol.

Cali. is in a drought....didn't think you had any water.  

Interesting background Milspec.

In your opinion, what water characteristics would benefit most from, or require an acid rinse, and which would benefit most from an emulsifying rinse?

Goomer wrote:Interesting background Milspec.

In your opinion,  what water characteristics would benefit most from, or require an acid rinse,  and which would benefit most from an emulsifying rinse?

Excellent question, here's the answer hmmm as a matter of fact I actually will let Rob answer that, lol.   

those numbers are the big cities, but out in the country water can be much harder depending... also usually contains no flouride... which is why if you live outside the big cities its a little harder to keep teeth white.

My wife will tell you that fluoride is poison. She claims it's responsible for more cancers than are known.

Your wife is correct.

DNA is responsible for cancers....

same with autism...NOT immunizations

DNA is kinda like computer code....

its either ON or OFF....if you wonder, take a look down your family tree...have a bunch of BLOOD family members with cancer.....your probably going to get cancer....

got some that have bad allergies..food, sensitivities, etc... you will probably want to wait on feeding your child early....

either your body is going to get it or not....no one really knows....

But to keep clumping these things in to the THEY CAUSE CANCER OR KILL YOU.....

is really becoming annoying

Some of the chemicals in the fluoride mixture do cause cancer.. just like lots of other weird man made things some inject and eat. It's a fact jack. Cancer is not hereditary.  Even though some things like allergies and joints and metabolism and muscle mass and adhd are. Even heart attacks are mostly "hereditary" simply because of life habits not because of a missing dna chain...