Lets talk pet urine

Whats working for you guys? and are your customers satisfied with the results?

S/o/o did you really have to ask? What else come close?

BTW Joe, good to have ya back hanging out. I always liked following your post.

Acid rinse,O.S.R. Soils and oils for odor. Rinse well, done. Most of the time it works. If the spots have been worked on by the owner, Things can change!

Flood with an acid rinse.
Claw
HP is there is any yellow.
Joedorcide.

Done and collect the check.

I have injected Bio modifier extreme too. But my preference is Joedorcide. Customers love the scent it leaves behind.

I'm been using OSR for long time and been happy with it

Flood with HP, extract with lg Water Claw, extract with wand, flood with Joedorcide, dwell time, extract with Claw. Flood with Joedorcide maybe 1-3 times depending on severity. Odor gone but yellowish stain may still be present if customer previously worked on it or is really old. I have 100% Joedorcide and it works best. My dilutions vary on each job. Need to play with dilutions to figure it out.

Listen nup gents.

For those flood and claw jobs. Soils n oils mixed strong about 8-10 oz per gallon, works great all by its self let soak for 30 minuts, maybe just a fluke but the times I tried it worked wonderful.

Also had great results on wiener dog pee all over, soils n oils encap mixed double strong with 5 oz peroxide per gallon, spayed heavy CRBed in pad cleaned out, smell was 100 percent gone by the time I packed up, surprised the heck out of me.

My first choice is usually OSR because it has both an oxidizer and residual odor modifying component, but I have also had success flooding with most enzyme presprays mixed strong with peroxide, and even Oxiclean in a jam.
Whatever the choice, the main key is to remove as much of the source as possible.

First step is always to explain to the customer that the only correct way to completely fix the problem is to replace the padding and shoot the dog......not necessarily to sell that service, which you usually won't anyway, but to make them understand and agree that any other option they choose is only meant to improve the condition, and can at times be limited in it's results.

What you want to hear at this point, which you usually will, is along the lines of..."Just do as good a job as you can.", or something similar, which will acknowlege that everyone is on the same page regarding expectations.

Lastly, after you do a kick ass job, make sure they understand the last and very important step, which is a aggressive dryout/ventilation campaign over the following days to lessen the chances of any issues that may manifest due the increased moisture being left deep in the padding, as opposed to just a cleaning.

What y'all described can pretty much fix MOST cases, today I had a lady with 500 sq ft back house and live with 4 - 5 cats that piss in every inches of her living and dining room ( about 150 sq ft ), yes that includes under the couches, don't ask me how the cats got in there and did their business cause the couches were never moved, the only thing I'm grateful was my allergy was really bad this morning, I can't smell anything, lol.
Did a STRONG mixture of OSR and joedorcide and extract, odor still there, not nearly as strong but it's still there, that was only the second customer of mine that joedorcide didn't take the odor out completely, in those cases, I pulled my second big gun out, hydramaster triple action odor neutralizer, I sprayed those on there undiluted, ahhhh, smells great, collect $ 150 and got $ 40 tips :-)
The sucks part is I have to steam the heck out of my vac hoses and waste tank after that, oh well, it's worth it :-)

Cat urine is the worst...they prefer to spray the vertical surfaces, so it is on the walls, furniture, etc. and it penetrates terribly. Any cat urine job is going to come with trouble, like Goomer said, get everyone on the same page from the start as those jobs don't always have a happy ending.

I have a customer that has the worst cat urine house in the country...I am certain of it. I've hit it twice now about 6 months apart and it has been so bad that I threw away 100 feet of vac house when it was done.

I am scheduled to go back to that house next month....this time they are buying me a new span of hose.

Cat urine on most all cases is a Decon job. I call it to the client a three dimensional cleaning. Bad ones need carpet pulled, tack less strip removed, padding removed, and sub floor sealed. If they want to pay. After all that both sides of the carpet need cleaning. I don't do a lot of these cause most don't want the bill. The last one I did was 100 ft sq bonus room area. $450. No odor at all. I hate cats, but I love the Decon jobs, they are really fun.

Did a STRONG mixture of OSR and joedorcide and extract, odor still there, not nearly as strong but it's still there, that was only the second customer of mine that joedorcide didn't take the odor out completely, in those cases, I pulled my second big gun out, hydramaster triple action odor neutralizer, I sprayed those on there undiluted, ahhhh, smells great, collect $ 150 and got $ 40 tips :-)
- DP1

Flood with Joedorcide maybe 1-3 times depending on severity.
-Gerry.

Yes. For cleaning/deodorizing really dirty, stinky stuff, a second treatment should be figured into the job.
What goes down in layers, comes off the same way, in layers.

Soils n oils mixed strong about 8-10 oz per gallon, works great all by its self let soak for 30 minutes, maybe just a fluke but the times I tried it worked wonderful.
- Andy

No Fluke. Glycolic to dissolve the salts then strong S/O is all I needed; that and Unsmoke's Cherry*.
*Good stuff but my testing showed Joedorcide works a little better on cat urine. Both leave a pleasant, lingering smell that's almost mandatory on these bad ones.

The last one I did was 100 ft sq bonus room area. $450. No odor at all. I hate cats, but I love the Decon jobs, they are really fun.
-Ryan

'Fun'? You mean 'challenging' don't you?
I bet there was some repair skills involved; like R&R tacless then restretching? Another big reason to have these skills - you can actually finish the job that most carpet cleaners (only) would screw up.

Never let them know the odds are against ya. Lesley used to love watching me walk into these type jobs. She would say I looked like there was no doubt I could handle the job. Sometimes confidence is all ya need. Helps dissolve any fear the client has.
 After the job was done we would get in the van and drive off and she would ask did you really know you could handle this job. I would say no, but I sure wasn't going to let them know or give another company the shot at the job.

Thanks for the feedback. It seems that a lot of you are having great results with the joedorcide. I have a 1/2 gallon of 50% left on the shelf still.
I've been using the following:
1. Fresh water rinse of affected area
2. Application of TCU
3. Dwell time of 15-30 min
4. Extraction & rinse
5. Application of micromodifier extreme w/ hydrocide
Works well but very expensive. I might go back to using the joedorcide in replacement of the micromodifier. Joedorcide is good but I like the enzyme in the mm x..

Ryan S wrote:Never let them know the odds are against ya. Lesley used to love watching me walk into these type jobs. She would say I looked like there was no doubt I could handle the job. Sometimes confidence is all ya need. Helps dissolve any fear the client has.
 After the job was done we would get in the van and drive off and she would ask did you really know you could handle this job. I would say no, but I sure wasn't going to let them know or give another company the shot at the job.

That's the right attitude Bro!!   

our process

-When we first walk in we bring the hydro shark and black light

-we mark the spots we find with water sol marker and at the same time douse them with OSR (this gives the enzyme time to dwell while u set up)

-then as long as its possible we run strong peroxide in the pre spray and the marked spots get extra, also s/o/o in the pre spray 4oz/gal 50%

-then we crank the heat and extract, if its a small lake we water claw it.


now that this process works and is easy we dont go crazy on the bill anymore... we do charge a good amount


but we are starting to install Smart Strand with a good moisture barrier pad for 1.75/ft so I dont think charging someone .50/sq ft to clean something that may or may not work is really worth it

not that we charge that much, but I have seen people on other forums talking about charging that much and sitting there clawing for hrs


1.75 and .50 is a big difference , and not everyone can afford either but if you feel the customer can and its a lot of urine that may get much better, we all know its still there in the pad somewhat no matter how much water you flush through


Its really not that hard to rip out carpet, rip out base boards, sand the floor if needed or replace sections , seal/paint

Thats really good money that you might consider not walking away from.

Had a job yesterday with major Golden Retriever puddles. Limited to one bedroom. I had this same job a year ago when the dog was a puppy. But he's a really big dog now, larger than the average retriever, with a really big bladder.

The smell would knock you over. I saturated with Pro's Choice USR, about twice the size of the visible stain. Let it sit. Then clawed it.

Finished the room with some Joedercide and S/O/E. Much better than last year. I used odorcide last year, and it took 2 treatments. Customer was ecstatic. I even got a tip!

BTW, she said that Joedercide should be named "Shizzle for Rizzle!" Lol!

Sweet deal, wonder if you mix some 8 ounces 20% peroxide with a ounce Shizzle for Rizzle in a gallon of water if that would work as a stand alone?

Here's a quote from Andy before he'd discovered SOO...

"Just a side note on deodorizing with SOE, I have a regular custy that has 3 very small weiny dogs that leave small pee spots all over, the best deodor results I ever had in the 5 times I've done this job was when I used SOE mixed with 4 oz per gallon of white knite, no other additive. Smell was completly gone in about 30 or 45 minutes, normally the carpet still stinks when I leave and the smell gets better as it drys out, ( accoring to the lady) but with SOE it's gone before I leave. I've used other products that have peroxide in them and never got results like that, so I feel the difference is in the SOE."

the difference ... may also be fresh peroxide added at time of job. Remember, H2O2 is stable at pH 4 or less whereas most presprays pH 7-10, so [peroxide goes flat just sitting there. Best to source your own from the pool supply and add it as needed.

I wonder if Rudd woulda gotten the same results, more cost effectively, with SOE+ pool supply peroxide+SOO (instead of OSR)?

here's Terry using SOE as a rinse to help remove dog body oil odors...

"every new dog can learn new tricks
when your not dealing with urine but dog smell all over I see many post on most of the boards about this problem.
Trust me I have had a more than a few re-cleans
We tend to look at a dog odor problem the wrong way
you should look it like a grease pit Chinese buffet
the dog oil bonds with the carpet like oil from a wok.
even more so with polyester and olefin carpets
so today I attacked this problem just like a GoLdEn DragON
heavy with the soils and oils with H202 and some extra citra solv.
sprayed down heavy good dwell time and pre-scrub
rinsed with soils and oils encap put fans down to speed dry.
The job was a success just got a check for 635 dollars whoooooooooooooo hooooooooooooo"

Review...


S/O - Prespray, fair deodorizer.

S/O/E - Encap prespray, contains S/O prespray and an acrylate encapsulating copolymer, fair deodorizer, hwe rinse agent.

S/O/O - Fragrance based Cleaner/Deodorizer, combines S/O prespray with a true odor eliminator. great for most all odors. Leaves a pleasant lingering fragrance, long time without the nausea of many other fragrances. Prpty magrs love the fragrance and the long lasting lingering effect it provides.

White Knight or any other liquid Peroxide mixes with all of the above.

Yes, you can mix S/O/E and S/O/O , just mix the two concentrates together first, shake the mixture real well, then add the mixture to your sprayer. I would think you'd be better off prespraying with S/O/O then bonneting with S/O/E.

And don't forget Trager's Trick prespray for that reall nasty one. I feature him in an upcoming Cleanfax eblast:

S/O 25 oz in HF
27% Peroxide 8 oz in HF
S/O/O 100% Joedercide 3 oz in HF
Kleenrite Dissolve 2 oz in HF

I used the Pro's Choice USR cause I had a gallon laying around and just wanted to use it up. Otherwise, pool supply is the best idea.

I truly believe we are yet to discover the potential of the soils and oils product line. The more we venture out and test, retest, evaluate, and then retest. The more results and great combos like Tragger and Terry have brought forth. I for one have benighted from the 100% joedercide. The future looks bright for me with the Sools and Oils product line.

when flushing with 8-10 per gallon oz of s/o/o doesn't it create a lot of foaming problems? At least that has been my experience. Am I doing it wrong?