No water flow out of little giant

fudging FORUM< THIRD T^IME I SPENT 10 MIN TYPING A RESPONCE AND GET A TIME OUT

WTF?!?!?

Davey Cracker wrote:fudging FORUM< THIRD T^IME I SPENT 10 MIN TYPING A RESPONCE AND GET A TIME OUT  

WTF?!?!?

Maybe Mo's heater has infected you....does the problem happen after the same amount of time?

Mo Really, just replace the bad/soft QD and be done with this woman Drama.

It's not the lack of a PR Valve, or anything else, just a worn QD, is all..

Im not sure what it is, but that's the third time tonight it's happened. I've retyped it twice, and said screw it on the other.

Davey Cracker wrote:Im not sure what it is, but that's the third time tonight it's happened. I've retyped it twice, and said screw it on the other.

It did it to me last night on one posting, but hasn't happened since. The only thing that changed was a re-boot after downloading some updates......maybe just need to restart.

Delete forum cookies and Ill look in to it. It ticked me off on Saturday

Davey Cracker wrote:Mo Really, just replace the bad/soft QD and be done with this woman Drama.

It's not the lack of a PR Valve, or anything else, just a worn QD, is all..

I removed one of them if that doesn't work Ill remove the other one. They;re brand new but the could be defective and failing with the heat I guess

So I tested the little giant with the QD removed at the cold water input side. Sprayed down my truck first with cold water for about 15 minutes than with hot water for 20. Of course it always works great when I test it at the house but craps out at the job fingers crossed.

I did notice that my flow meter bubbled a little bit at start up so it might have been sucking air. Hopefully that's it, but I don't understand why I wouldn't loose pressure with it disconnected from the heater

At this point, why don't you just remove all the QD's, to eliminate those as a possible cause?

I've had many air leaks in my chem injection system, and air in the lines, and never had that cause no flow threw heater...........as long as the PSI gauge is showing pressure that is.........but it's a different story if the gauge isn't showing pressure, sometimes it can take awhile to get it primed back up after getting air in the system.

When you have this no flow prob, what is your gauge reading?......because if you're sucking air that's a prob if the gauge isn't showing pressure.

If there is air, there are likely steam pockets being formed. Steam can create a lot of pressure and stop water flow.

I remember being aboard a Navy Cruiser and being assigned to help the crew test the engine room for steam leaks. You would run broom handles along the pipes and when you found a pinhole leak, it would saw off the wooden handle in a split second.

The heater would flow under cold conditions, but bind up under high heat. Try running the heater at a cooler temperature...say 180 and see what happens.

Well, first replace all the QC's with matched sets before Davey jumps a plane for Arizona with knife.

Gauge would show low pressure but when I would hook up the hose directly to the machine I would get pressure. Maybe that small leak was not enough to lose pressure with cold water like Ron suggests.

Sounds like your Low pressure seals in your pump could be spent also.

Cat Pump?.......last time the seals were replaced?

milspec6 wrote:

Well, first replace all the QC's with matched sets before Davey jumps a plane  for Arizona with knife.

Haha, I don't want to kill him that bad!

How bad do you want to do me in. 

Pump is fine like I said no problems when running with out the heater and I did that for a while.

Not bad LOL

Just wish you would fix that damned problem!

Hopefully today is the day I get some popping while I'm cleaning for the whole dang job. At least my truck looks shiny with the hot water pressure jog I gave it yesterday.

Have a good day gentlemen.

Ok found the problem the coil was going bad It finally blew this morning. RIP.

Now should I spend 700 for a new coil or upgrade to a 3HP for 1600.00??


Heat Exchanger?

Mo wrote:Ok found the problem the coil was going bad It finally blew this morning. RIP.

Now should I spend 700 for a new coil or upgrade to a 3HP for 1600.00??


Heat Exchanger?

The silver solder was expanding then.....how much of a mess did it create?

There isn't anything special about the rest of the LG heaters, so my first response would be to just buy another coil. That being said, if you intend to clean tile....an upgrade would make good sense as well.

Viewed my magic 8-ball. Buy a new unit and sell the old one for parts at $300. That would get you a new unit with clean jets for $1300....that would be a good upgrade and provide trouble-free cleaning for probably the whole peak season.

In my book, trouble-free is worth a lot. If I could pay the bad luck gods a fee of $1300 to have worry-free heat for the year, I would pay in cash with a smile.

Well that solves that I guess, but how did the coil going bad, stop it from flowing?

I'd def go with the HP if I were buying a new one..............why not just buy a new HP coil? Aren't they less than 1k?

The solder looked weird I think It might have been expanding, well is sliced open today. Last time it just burst didn't get all finicky first.

I think a replacement coil might be the ticket 685.00 at Steambrite, 800 at sunbelt. Im going to call little giant tomorrow see how much they sell them for.

After talking to my welder (yes he finally cut out the walls of my truck and is installing the 3/8 inch platform now) he suspects that Mo's welder didn't use "Silver Braze" and instead used a softer silver solder which uses lower heat and doesn't handle shearing forces very well.

It takes a LOT of heat to use the Silver Braze so most shops don't have the ability and go with the lower temp solder. Add your 230 degree water at 500 psi and things became weak as the solder starts to expand like a rubber inner tube that was about to fail.

Throwing that out there, you might have a case against your welder. You could take it to another welder and ask him to pull the coil for inspection. If it was a failed repair due to low heat silver solder....the first shop might be persuaded to make another repair for free with a silver braze.

Of course, you would still be stuck with an old heater which has had several repairs done to the coil...that would cause me to lose sleep at night.

Replace the unit with a 3 HP and sleep well at night.

Yeah the location and size of the original tear made this failure a probability.

Yea, I agree. Those repaired coils make me nervous too, Mine has been repaired before, and I'm always worried about it failing again there.

It would be nice to have the piece of mind that comes with a new one, especially a new HP model.

I think Ill go with just the coil I need the other couple of hundred for my new drive plate and velcro driver for the Orbot. As luck will have it both the Orbot and Heater are out of commission arhhhh.

Check out how much the neck of the coil stretched. I heard that was the spot were the most stress is at.

I took it to a radiator shop and said he was going to silver solder it. I think it lasted about a year but again it was a big tear